1KZ Automatic Gearbox - Reconditioning/repairing

Hi,

I've just had to sadly leave my Hiace Super Custom campervan (1KZ-138, permament AWD) in Belgium, as it started spewing lots of transmission fluid everywhere. And I do mean lots, like a pool 4ft across within a few mins at a service station. When I looked there was a trail of fluid leading to where I had parked. Dipped the fluid, and it was very brown. Looking back, there had been two instances, quite far apart, where the gearbox didn't seem to engage, but both times I just put it back to neutral and then in gear again and it was fine. Drove through the alps and back, and was feeling very happy with the was the she was motoring along.

Luckily, I had very good breakdown cover and insurance (through AIB, who have been fantastic), so the van was recovered to a local mechanic. Unfortunately, he only spoke french, and my O level was a long time ago. What he seemed to say was that the gearbox would need to be sent off for repair, but that nobody in Belgium would be able to do it, as he had never seen a van like this before.

So my question is, can anybody recommend somewhere in the UK that might be able to do this job? Or offer any advice? The van is being repatriated in about 12 days, so I should know more then, but I thought I try and get a head start as I really need the van back on the road as soon as possible. Alternatively, is there a source for reconditioned auto gearboxes for Super Customs?

Many thanks in advance

Russ

The van with the 1KZ engine was not sold on the mainland Europe. Usually just the 2.4 liter diesel with manual transmission (and if it would be automatic, it would be a different gearbox)
The vans have been sold here (at least here in Netherlands) but like worker vans, and they are almost all been exported to africa.

So in the end he is right, that gearbox is not very well known here.

On the VIN plate (lefthand side under chair) there should be the exact transmission code. There should be a code like "A340F" or something.
You could then search ebay (or gumtree for Australia / NZ) for such a gearbox.

In this link it shows that there are two types, they change in 1999
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1999_TOYOTA_HIACE_KZH138V-EFPDT_3501.html

Perhaps you can try the Toyota dealership what they can supply for rebuild kits or even a complete rebuilt gearbox (that last one won't be cheap)

Rebuild kits are available, check this link (if you have the A340F!)
https://www.ebay.nl/sch/i.html?_odkw=transmission+a340&LH_PrefLoc=2&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=transmission+a340f&_sacat=0

Then you can find a company to do it. (but perhaps they can get the rebuild kits themselves)

Hiace4wd wrote:

The van with the 1KZ engine was not sold on the mainland Europe. Usually just the 2.4 liter diesel with manual transmission (and if it would be automatic, it would be a different gearbox)
The vans have been sold here (at least here in Netherlands) but like worker vans, and they are almost all been exported to africa.

So in the end he is right, that gearbox is not very well known here.

On the VIN plate (lefthand side under chair) there should be the exact transmission code. There should be a code like "A340F" or something.
You could then search ebay (or gumtree for Australia / NZ) for such a gearbox.

Many thanks Hiace4wd. Once I have the van back I'll look up the code. My concern is that there may now be secondary damage to the gearbox, so a reconditioned box rather than a repair would be less stressful, I think.

I'm not an expert on automatic transmissions, but I would think that a rebuild kit would solve most issues.
A replacement would be nice, but may be hard to find. If they can rebuild one, then at least you know the state it is in.

For a direct replacement I think you have the best chances in Australia and New Zealand, when you cannot find it yourself.

Since the local mechanics are reluctant to touch it (same problem for me in the states) I'd recommended a complete flush first with a filter change.
I had a shifting issue that I was ready for a rebuild and the flush using Castrol high mileage fluid solved the problem. 5,000 km so far and never missed a shift.

Did it overheat and cause the overflow?
Was the level still OK when you checked it?

I'm looking for a rear diff... if either of us can find a van to break it might be worth combining forces to part it out?

I'm struggling to find anything at the moment!

Cheers,
W.

NEVER do a complete flush on an old auto box, the cleaning action is too severe and the sludge will block vital parts later. Good idea to change the filter though - the amount in the sump is ideal as a partial change volume.

Most Toyota boxes are shared with other models (Hilux, Supra etc), get a specialist to recondition it for you in the UK.

Have a look for an auto box specialist. They can do all the worrying and looking for parts for you. Hope it's a quick repair and doesn't cost the earth.

GPW wrote:

NEVER do a complete flush on an old auto box, the cleaning action is too severe and the sludge will block vital parts later. Good idea to change the filter though - the amount in the sump is ideal as a partial change volume.

This was the first time I didn't follow that line of thinking.
I think the 4 sump volume changes allowed the complete flush to do the trick.
Each partial change, changed the symptoms.
If the box needs to be rebuilt, a flush isn't going to do more damage.

I took it back to the shop that did look at it and they were shocked it solved the problem.

Ace MM wrote:

GPW wrote:

NEVER do a complete flush on an old auto box, the cleaning action is too severe and the sludge will block vital parts later. Good idea to change the filter though - the amount in the sump is ideal as a partial change volume.

This was the first time I didn't follow that line of thinking.
I think the 4 sump volume changes allowed the complete flush to do the trick.
Each partial change, changed the symptoms.
If the box needs to be rebuilt, a flush isn't going to do more damage.

I took it back to the shop that did look at it and they were shocked it solved the problem.

4 partial changes sounds ideal, each one cleans a little more gunk out (friction material basically) without blocking anything.

Based on my reading research it's the people who hook them up to total change machines by splicing into the cooler lines that junk their transmissions.

Glad it's solved, result!!