Vibration Clutch/Flywheel Issues??

Hi, having vibration issues with my 4WD 1995 Hiace Custom.
Gets bad at about 80km/h in 5th gear and goes away once power is released or coasting.
Have checked drive shafts, diffs, front bearings etc and all seem fine.
I've been reading that vibrations can be caused by a worn 'Dual Mass' flywheel that I'm not sure whether my van has one.
Has anyone had these issues and resolved them?
I've also read that many swap out to a solid flywheel on a clutch replacement.
Help would be appreciated as its a real hard one to pin down and getting expensive trying to find the cause!

When I have had this problem it has been at high-way ish speeds... It has always been a universal joint...
I recommend using Amayama to find and drill down through the the schematics for your make and model to find the correct part.

But I also currently own a KZH106G so here is the direct link to the schematics for our vans...

https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/regius_ace/kzh106g/128140

I'm currently weighing up converting to a Solid Mass Flywheel for the clutch but also had a Universal joint that needs replacing.

Remember that the manufacturers tolerance for play in the universal joints is zero...

I checked mine and thought they were fine took a couple gos to find the offender... there is 4 of them of course... my worst one was at the gear box end of the front drive shaft.

It could be the dual mass flywheel crapping out in the clutch, or it could be a wheel bearing, or it could be engine mounts, but having owned a few supercustoms, my instinct is that judging by your symptoms it is most likely a universal joint....

Grab both ends of the joint and give them a few good twists in opposite directions.... Is there play?

If not I'd be scratching my head a bit about wtf else it could be... AFAIK normally mounts and and flywheels are more noticeable at lower speeds when coasting to a stop or at idle...

kicking in at 80 ks and smoothing out otherwise, and only when drive is engaged ... really absolutely screams universal joint to me ....

Have a second look?

Also - When you do figure out what it is - can you post in this thread?

I'd love to know what it turned out to be...

Cheers,
Quinnjin

Hello both.
I’m unsure if these vans have dual mass flywheels. Maybe the 1KZ engines might, I don’t know, but the 3L’s is solid and very heavy.

Quinnjin78’s post is very good.

I had a horrible noise on overrun at speed, which was caused by the rear engine mount, which sits on the transmission. I also have had a slightly stiff spider joint that will be being replaced in due course. 30y old engine mounts might be a bit suspect, no?

This thread might help with a few thoughts to narrowing down sources of vibration:

https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t4706-vibration-high-speed-with-drivetrain-engaged#26244

And this one:

https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t4512-vibration-and-noise-when-driving-at-100kph-or-faster#25237

The truth is out there!! Good luck.

Well to continue the saga, I have had a lot of trouble finding parts and compatible clutches for my vehicle, which i currently in pieces in a friends workshop.
I have decided to convert to a Solid Mass flywheel. (SMF)

I have found the best price to be from clutchdirect.co.nz, who are actually an aussie company with a kiwi branch.

On pulling the trans, we found the Rear Engine Mount ( actually a gearbox top mount) to be completely shot, which would explain the heavy vibration at idle.

Aftermarket clutch suppliers are mostly only making SMF's these days.

I went for a 4terrainHD made by Clutch Industries.

Its is not a DMR kit (Dual Mass Replacement)

I am replacing the dual mass as it is bound to be shot or near to it, at 350,000 k's, (well over rating afaik) and going for a heavy duty clutch as I do a fair bit of off road and towing, and having no low ratio, one is often forced to ride the clutch.

I would go for the 4terrain ultimate, in a heartbeat, which has Aramid (kevlar) on the flywheel side, and is excellent for off roading, but I don't currently have enough financial leeway... but the HD is still going to be a major upgrade on the OEM standard clutch.

I also had two shot universal joints, one really bad, the other with a little bit of play.. in the front drive shaft ( remembering the tolerance for play is zero) ...

As the front drive shaft is a real performance to get out... I decided to do them both.

I have no doubt the rest of the engine mounts are not great given the amount of vibration they've had to endure, but they'll have to wait.

My local BNT has ordered in to versions of the "Rear engine mount" as there was a lot of confusion about which part it would be.
They will be 100, or 200 odd depending.

SO I will take the old one in and compare.


Also the rear main seal, the oil seal between the engine crankshaft and the clutch was blown, so oil had has been right through the bell housing, thrown out by the fly wheel.

As was the Spigot bearing ( only 12.00 to replace, just a standard bearing... )

So anyway a lot of cleaning for me to do before I get my mechanic back in to help me put it in...
- I'd rather not pay him to do monkey work and h'e rather not do it !

And a real muck around sourcing parts.

Be warned, there is a lot of confusion around parts especially the 94/95 period, and huge price variance.

But the reality is, more kits will fit than is generally thought.

I settled on the 4TSRF2348NHD

https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/driveline/car-clutch-kits/clutch-industries-4terrain-heavy-duty-clutch-kit-inc-flywheel-4tsrf2384nhd-a/p/A6119830

Don't let the numpty sales guy reading the reccomended kits list from his computer screen put you off, you need an actual technician, and it's worth checking with the company, by phone, don't trust the website.

I have been guaranteed by Clutch Direct that this will fit my vehicle, and I got it for $850 NZ with fly wheel....delivered, at Repco here in NZ, near ~1350
That's a $500 saving, and a hundred dollars cheaper than the bog standard factory model available at BNT. (also solid mass flywheel, dual mass fly whels are rear as rocking horse sh*t, and horrifically expensive) ...

After all of this hopefully all my slipping clutch and vibration issues will be sorted...

Next will be all the bushes, and at some point either a new head or a reconditioned engine....


Good luck and good hunting.

Any tips greatly appreciated ... ( who does good affordable reconditioned engines in NZ ?)


X D

Well to continue the saga, I have had a lot of trouble finding parts and compatible clutches for my vehicle, which is currently in pieces in a friends workshop.
I have decided to convert to a Solid Mass flywheel. (SMF)

I have found the best price to be from clutchdirect.co.nz, who are actually an aussie company with a kiwi branch.

On pulling the trans, we found the Rear Engine Mount ( actually a gearbox top mount) to be completely shot, which would explain the heavy vibration at idle.

Aftermarket clutch suppliers are mostly only making SMF's these days.

I went for a 4terrainHD made by Clutch Industries.

Its is not a specifically marked as a DMR kit (Dual Mass Replacement) nor is it specifically recommended for my year of van, but after much research I believe there is no difference, it's just a solid mass kit and either fits or it doesn't.
The enquiries I have made and techs have made point to the fact that it will fit.

I am replacing the dual mass as it is bound to be shot or near to it,  at 350,000 k's, (well over rating afaik) and going for a heavy duty clutch as I do a fair bit of off road and towing, and having no low ratio, one is often forced to ride the clutch.

I would go for the 4terrain ultimate, in a heartbeat, which has Aramid (kevlar) on the flywheel side, and is excellent for off roading, but I don't currently have enough financial leeway... but the HD is still going to be a major upgrade on the OEM standard clutch.

I also had two shot universal joints, one really bad, the other with a little bit of play.. in the front drive shaft ( remembering the tolerance for play is zero) ...

As the front drive shaft is a real performance to get out... I decided to do them both while the trans is out ...

I have no doubt the rest of the engine mounts are not great given the amount of vibration they've had to endure, but they'll have to wait.

My local BNT has ordered in two versions of the "Rear engine mount" as there was a lot of confusion about which part it would be.
They will be 100, or 200 odd depending.

SO I will take the old one in and compare. ( fingers crossed its the cheaper one)


Also the rear main seal, the oil seal between the engine crankshaft and the clutch was blown, so oil had has been right through the bell housing, thrown out by the fly wheel.

As was the Spigot bearing ( only 12.00 to replace, just a standard bearing... )

So anyway a lot of cleaning for me to do before I get my mechanic back in  to help me put it in...
- I'd rather not pay him to do monkey work and he'd rather not do it !

And a real muck around sourcing parts.

Be warned, there is a lot of confusion around parts especially the 94/95 period, and huge price variance.

But the reality is, more kits will fit than is generally thought.

I settled on the 4TSRF2348NHD

https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/driveline/car-clutch-kits/clutch-industries-4terrain-heavy-duty-clutch-kit-inc-flywheel-4tsrf2384nhd-a/p/A6119830

Don't let the numpty sales guy reading the recommended kits list from his computer screen put you off, you need an actual technician, and it's worth asking the tech/ rep to check with the manufacturing company, by phone, don't trust their website either.

I have been guaranteed by Clutch Direct that the 4TerrainHD will fit my vehicle, and I got it for $850 NZ - with fly wheel....delivered, by way of comparison, at Repco here in NZ, the price was ~$1350.00!
That's a $500 saving, and a hundred dollars cheaper than the bog standard factory spec model available at BNT. (also solid mass flywheel, dual mass flywheels are rare as rocking horse sh*t, and horrifically expensive) ...

After all of this hopefully all my slipping clutch and nasty vibration issues will all be sorted...

Next will be all the (near perished) bushes, and at some point either a new head or a reconditioned engine....


Good luck and good hunting.

P.S. Any tips / pointers greatly appreciated ... ( who does good affordable reconditioned engines in NZ ?)


X D