Hydraulic Clutch Issues, Master or Slave Cyinder

Hi guys,

Am attempting to diagnose and fix a hydraulic clutch issue in a 93 full time 4wd super custom - 1kzte, Manual.

Clutch not returning/ goes soft, fails to fully actuate clutch to point where gears can not be freely changed.

I have bled slave cylinder numerous times, lasts a few days, get's worse again.

Now seems to be going bad over night after bleeding.

I have found the master cylinder ... looking for issues.

All I can say at this point is the piston rod where it connects to the pedal/ pivot looks real weird... like it's kind of not at the right angle?

Is that normal?

I can only see from underneath at this stage... haven't got so far as to pull dash and a/c duct....

I just bought this thing after my 91 4x4 manual got totalled. (Gutted)

It was the best I could get with low insurance payout.

HAs various issues... blow by/ worn rings ( vapour from oil level vent )

Main concern right now is the clutch though...

Am considering replacing slave first, or rebuilding... but don't have a hone if that turns out to be the issue?

Any advice out there?

It seems to drive fine but then get worse while it sits... ?

Hello and welcome to the forum

As I’m sure you know there’s not much to really go wrong with a manual clutch but fixing it can be a bit of a pain.

I take it the clutch hasn’t been really right since you got your new van but you are just coming to terms with an unfolding series of issues with whatever is wrong with the clutch.

I also didn’t realise that there would be a manual ‘93 full time 4wd super custom - 1kzte’. I have a manual and am pleased with it. I didn’t really want an auto.

Anyhow, here’s a screen grab of the diagnostics of the clutch for you to consider:


While you do point to a possibility of fluid getting past a master or slave seal to lessen actuation it’s worth starting with the clutch pedal positioning. If that’s wrong then you’re off to a bad start. Here’s the page:


If the pedal is correct then I think you’re right to next consider the slave cylinder. They are a bit exposed but thankfully quite easy to refurbish or just replace. They are not expensive and are a common part across the Toyota range. Refurb is a definite possibility but at ~30y I’d just replace. If you get the thing apart only to discover the bore is scored then you’ll need a new one.

I’m not that familiar with the master cylinder, but I have the dash out of my van so I can take a look. I’ve no gearbox or flywheel in (slave cylinder is hanging on string) so not keen to press the pedal. Also do take a good look at the condition of the piping. If it’s kinked then it’ll restrict the fluid flow and possibly compromise the system on pedal release.

I won’t go into parts searching etc here, but check this simple and short post for links and places to search:

https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t4468-part-numbers

HTH!

Hi, apologies for hijacking this thread.

I found out that my clutch master cylinder (is that the same as slave cylinder) needs to be replaced. It is leaking break fluid from there and the clutch pedal is loose and wont "come back" so cant even drive aat all.

I have a manual 1982 model, does anybody have any manuals or tips how to replace this?
Does the dashboard need to come out for it?

Hi Lady Hiace

Glad you figured out what was leaking. The master cylinder is not the same as the slave cylinder. The master cylinder is actuated by the clutch pedal which builds pressure and pushes on the slave cylinder hydraulically…which moves the clutch linkage in and out to release it.

On the newer hiaces you don’t pull the upper dash. You do pull the lower dash, HVAC/radio, and the instrument cluster so you can get at it from the top through the hole you made.

I would think that your older simpler design could be no harder than that, but I have no direct experience on your version to be honest. It is worth noting that the 80’s domestic Toyota vans that sorta look like a Hiace that were imported to the US are repaired that way. You just remove the dash part surrounding the instrument cluster so you can remove it and access your pedal assembly.

Good luck. Not a fun repair, but it uses basic hand tools and can be done in your driveway.
-Bryan

Hi Bryan,

thanks for your comment/help!
I had a look at the dash in the meantime and it looks I might get away with only removing parts of the dash (radio surroundings). This is a japanese import so hopefully I find the manual easy enough.

The actual replacement will be hopefully done by a mechanic but since I need to find someone coming to my place, I will do some pre-work and take off the dash at least.

Thanks

Hello.
It’s generally better to start a new thread but no dramas. This is staying completely on topic, too.

As blgravely correctly states the master cylinder is actuated by the pedal and the slave cylinder is actuated by the resulting hydraulic pressure. The master and slave terms are anachronistic, but widely used. Sometimes the slave cylinders (at the wheels for the brakes or at the clutch itself to disengage that) are called receiver cylinders, or wheel cylinders or clutch release cylinder.

Anyhow, I think you’re right to just remove the radio surround and gauges, plus the lower finish panel and steering column covers. You might also need to remove a heater duct, too. Be careful as the combination meter connections and other plastic parts in the area can go brittle over time and the electrical ribbons can be easily damaged. You will also have to remove the speedo cable from the back of the gauges.

I’d suggest you take lots of pictures and put the screws etc in bags or otherwise keep track of things for reassembly.
I also think you’re doing exactly the right thing to do the disassembly etc yourself, especially while waiting for the part to arrive. Firstly, there’s no point in paying a mechanic to do a job you can do yourself and if you are careful and take your time you’ll inevitably do a much better job.

I’ve not replaced a clutch master cylinder in a Hiace but it doesn’t look hugely complicated, especially if you are just swapping new for old. There are service kits for the master and slave cylinders, but if it’s original you are probably better to replace the units. Regardless, you do need to guard against fluid loss and spillage as it’s hazardous and destroys paintwork. On completion you will need to bleed the clutch and check and adjust the pedal position as shown above.

A 1980s Hiace is earlier than any of the manuals I have, I think. Having said that Toyota didn’t seem to make revolutionary changes to different models and there probably isn’t much of a difference between the second, third and fourth generation Hiaces. Take a look at this post (https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t4317-my-lh119) and the manuals part, in the first post,  specifically.

Hope this helps.

I was just reading this thread thinking wow this must be a really common problem, and then I realised the original post was by me! (lol) ....ridiculous...

The clutch died, so I hired a mechanic an between us we have completely replace it...
Clutch Industries 4 Terrain HD clutch, and new solid mass fly wheel.




The clutch was bare metal. No grip left at all.
Covered in oil.

The old dual mass flywheel still seemed functional...

But as no idea of age and rough condition, I opted to replace with a no nonsense solid mass.
The clutch feel is heavier, more aggressive/ positive I took out everything you described above, upper lower dash, air con duct the vent, and even the cover of the fuse box to get it in ( every cm helps)

I also took out the seat, this way you can lie backwards inside the van and get to stuff from underneath...

I also loosened a strut inside the dash and pushed aside to give better access... I couldn't fully undo it as there is a bolt that is inaccessible..

Now having put it all back together, I am hoping I can adjust pedal play, without having to remove anything again..

It's Touch and go with this van, a lot of stuff neds repair...
It has been neglected.
I'm very lucky where I am currently staying I have had access to a big workshop...
And had the help of a good mechanic.
But has been expensive exercise.

Finding parts hs been very interesting.

You will be told there is no heavy duty option for these vans, this is untrue.

There is clutch industries 4terrain HD, and it was totally compatible ... ( with new bolts of a different length that came with the kit... same protrusion/ clearance into the crank shaft mount is the key ) (in my case a shade over 16mm)

I recommend Clutch Direct in NZ or Aussie ... by far the more reasonable price.

Repco/ and BnT were totally out of control. Taking the proverbial.

As part of this saga I also  had to replace the engine mount on the transmission, which is out of production.

I believe AMAYAMA have one listed, but I couldn't wait a month for something that might be wrong ...

So I got a new bush from The Mount Shop, and fitted it to the existing mount.

I was told by toyota and SAS that you can't replace the bush, this is a lie, you can...
It's not the easiest job but it can be done.

Hit me up if any body encounters this problem and I will let you know how to do it and the correct part numbers etc. ( for a KZH106 '94 Manual Super Custom) Or at least where to look if not applicable.

Cheers all,
Q