Van died due to cold and now wont start

I have a 1996 HiAce SCL with the 1kz-te, I started the van this morning with no issue, it was 20f outside so I let it warm up for a few minutes before I put it in drive. When I did it started to hiccup and start to die so I turned on the high idle switch and it cleared it. when I started to drive it felt fine but when I got to a stop sign the rpm dropped to 400 then it sputtered out and died and will not start. It cranks totally fine but will not turn over. What is the fix for this, I have no clue.

Could be fuel starvation hopefully (blocked filters there are several) not just the main fuel filter, or even air ingress , to check put a clear pipe on fuel return to tank from IP or drop pipe from IP into clear container ,flow should be quite high with no air . If fuel flow is good the next suspect with these symptoms would be ECU more difficult to check easiest way would be to borrow a known good one otherwise have it looked at by a technician not easy as most shops do not want to know as they have no test equipment for these old vehicles . I personally have had all the above problems and overcome them do  not be dis-heartened I am 75 and love my SC1kzte, look in the search section there is loads of info.

Best of look.

PS We need more info for a more accurate diagnosis.

The main issue is that the van wont start, It will crank over fine and both batteries are in perfect shape. It just will not fire over, nothing sounds to be out of the ordinary so I don't know what to check now

I have tried to reset the ecu by removing the battery leads and touching them together, with no luck. I tired priming the fuel, still didn't work.
I've tried jumping pins in the obd port to reset the fault code but I cant even get the codes to show on the check engine light, I haven't found a clear diagram on what pins to just to reset it.
I am going to try to disconnect the batteries and let it sit over night which should reset the computer and it will hopefully run again.

OK we have had a crank but no start once was the capacitors on the ECU , but first establish diesel supply to IP and check timing belt is ok , my SC made a clicking sound from the spill valve on IP this is controlled by the ECU which is in the door pillar behind passenger seat , from your second post you sound able to work things out , the filter head pump on ours failed and is now replaced with a standard filter and electric lift pump with a rock catcher in fuel line , here is a check list for fuel supply I had to deal with.
1/ pump filter head with return pipe open ( is there any fuel)
2/ is there any air in fuel (if not ok)
3/ is pick up filter in tank blocked (ours was 99% blocked 25 years of crud this can be cleared temp by compressed air down pipe)
4/ There is a filter under the fuel pipe banjo on IP also under the spill valve both can be accessed with IP in situ, ( our banjo filter was partly blocked the other was OK)

If after all these are ok and system is free of air loosen injector pipe to ensure IP pump is injecting if not it is probably the ECU a new one is listed well over £1000 if you can find one , the spill valves are usually very reliable but also expensive .
Our ECU needed new capacitors that are only about £3 or £4 each about 7/8 required luckily one of the forum members could do the job, I contacted several ECU repair shops none were prepared to do the job the reply was yes we can but we decline because we have no test equipment for these old models ( plus they want to charge several hundred pounds for a simple job). If you PM me with a phone number and time we can talk if you wish.

Hello Clayson000 and welcome to the forum.

Sorry to hear of your woes. 20F sounds very chilly but Hiaces were designed and built to cope well in cold weather. The van might have suffered in the cold, but it might not have suffered due to the cold; however, the cold might have exacerbated another problem.

As JT69 points out it could well be fuel starvation and his suggestions are really good, as ever. You need to be organised and thorough and starting from where you have crank, the next thing to consider is fuel.

One thing he doesn’t mention, so it might not be relevant on the 1KZ engine is the stop solenoid? Many indirect diesel engines use a stop solenoid and my 3L does. I’ve not had a problem with my Hiace but I did have a problem with a stop solenoid in an old Peugeot. When I was driving along the solenoid failed and the engine died. It wouldn’t start until I removed the spring-loaded pin in the solenoid. The solenoid is normally held open by the ignition voltage and closes when the ignition is turned off to stop the engine. It replaces the ignition voltage collapse on a petrol.

I’m presuming the 1KZ has a stop solenoid and that it might be powered and turned–off by the ECU, but it might be controlled more simply than that and I just wonder if it’s worth an examination and what JT69 thinks, too?

HTH!!

Hi the 1kzte does not have a stop solenoid as such it has spill valve that does same job but much more to control fuel supply , this is controlled in turn by the ECU that takes into account all things like turbo pressure throttle position temp etc.

There are some great videos on youtube for the 1kzte IP filters and spill valve checks mostly from Pakistan or India those guys really mess with Hiaces.