Ignition Barrel light

So just one of those things that i noticed isnt working and whilst it is very much a 'non-essential' in its function, i still like to know why things do not work.

KZH100 1994 Supercustom Ltd

Not sure if the 2 are linked at all, but my 'keys in barrel' beep doesnt beep either. (not missing out here i know, but just some info)

Got into it by taking 2 x screws out of Diesel flap release and 1 x screw on other side of trim.

Removed 1 x screw near barrel to release opaque plastic shroud, revealing the T5 bulb and his little green hat.  


At this point, i just assumed it was a blown bulb but nope...


Followed the wire down until i got to a plug, took it out and tested it with bulb..


So a bit stumped now. Have checked both fuse boxes - all good.
Have checked voltage at exposed plug - nothing

Going into the tangle of wires underneath the steering column is the next step i guess - not looking forward to that.. hahaha

Hello.

Do you have the wiring diagram from Hiacesoutheast? I've no idea if the light is fed from the buzzer or from some other switched (ig itself?) or permanent power supply (dash illum?) but this resource might help.

HTH

LH119V wrote:

Hello.

Do you have the wiring diagram from Hiacesoutheast? I've no idea if the light is fed from the buzzer or from some other switched (ig itself?) or permanent power supply (dash illum?) but this resource might help.

HTH

Yo! I was looking through that this morning. So it seems to be on the same connection as the map lights (circled pink) that i am having trouble with as well. (not turning on/off with door closing/opening) I didnt know they were connected.

https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t4435-map-lights-not-coming-on-when-doors-open

My door sensor lights (circled yellow) work as they should.

A connection/ground isnt making contact somewhere, just have to interpret this wiring diagram and try to trace it.

Have also sanded the ground door sensors/switches (circled in blue) they are working fine.

G'day LH and egoloss,

Thanks for the helpful posts and links.

I stuck a new (fast-charge enabled) usb charger into my cigarette lighter and blew a fuse. Not surprising, but I also lost radio, clock and all internal lights.

On the upside I manage to lose the buzzer when the key is inserted into the barrell (phew), but I had no power when the key turned to 'ACC'. The camper did start, but without power to those accessories.

Just to encourage anyone here unsure of where to start, like me, over an afternoon and with the help of the wiring diagram from Hiacesoutheast (thanks to LH119V), I got everything back up and running.

I do have some questions from my four hours of fun, if anyone has some tips to help fill in the blanks.

(1) my fuse cover (stamped w/ part no 82611-26080, which Amayama says is the correct part) and this website (fuseandrelay.com) says that for a Toyota HiAce "4G", the fuse should be a 15A for the dome light:

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So I replaced the blown 10A fuse with a 15A fuse and it's working fine. Note the wiring diagram from Hiacesoutheast (Part F, p 104) says 7.5A Dome Light fuse:

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So, I'm just a little confused. I don't want to use too large a fuse if it's not going to protect my circuits.

(2) I had blown a couple of other fuses also, the cigarette lighter and radio fuses. So I replaced them. But I still had no power to the pesky accessories, and no "ACC" power in the ignition barrel.

(I have exceeded the maximum allowed number of photos, so I will start a new post below on tracking down the blown fuse / fusible link next to the battery bay.)

Part 2

(2) I replaced other blown fuses (cigarette lighter and radio). But I still had no  no warning buzzer when I inserted the key with the door open, and no "ACC" power when I turned the key. It would start tho.

Online I found consistent advice about looking for AM1 and AM2 fuses upstream:
toyotanation.com (admittedly for a Corolla):  

Cartipsdaily.com (generic)

And Fixya.com (for an 07 Toyota Matrix?)

They all say, in essence:
1. The cigarette lighter receives power from the "CIG" FUSE (15A)
2. The CIG FUSE receives power from the ignition switch when in the ON or ACC positions
3. The ignition switch receives power from the "AM1 FUSE" (25A to 40A), which receives power from the "ALT FUSE" (100A) in the engine room junction box, which receives power from FUSIBLE LINK (14 GA) which receives power from the battery.

I thought this "AM1 fuse" must have blown.

According to CarTips Daily, "AM1 is the ignition system 40a fuse with dedicated wires operated by the ignition switch. When switch to ACC/ACCESSORY position, the AM1 fuse connect to ACC. When switched to ON position, AM2 fuse connect to IG1, AM1 fuse connect to ACC and IG2. When switch to START, AM1 fuse disconnect ACC and IG2, AM2 fuse connect to IG1."

I cross-checked with the wiring diagram from Hiacesoutheast (which I trust more) (Part F, p 114) and I see "AM1" and "AM2" is for petrol engines. For a diesel (I have a 1KZ, LLH119 custom), there are "fusible links" within the Fusible Link Box (FS5 on the wiring diagrams). I was relieved, I can basically ignore internet blogs about AM1 and AM2.

But when I went looking for AM1 "fusible links" I found "cartridge fuses" in the FL box.  Mine has 4 labels:
Main 40A
Glow 60A
ALT 100A
AM1 50A

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I tested all 4 cartridges. (In the process I snapped the cover off "Glow 60A")

They all seem fine as no copper wire is blown, and they show resistance when tested with my multimeter. Stumped, I put back the fusible links box and battery, put down the seat expecting to start again tomorrow, and everything was fine, I had ACC power!   and the annoying beep on inserting the key was back. Hallelujah

My questions are:

2.1 Where are the "fusible links" (I expected a 14 gauge wire from all the internet blogs), or are these wires now replaced by those four cartridges?

2.2 How do you remove these cartridges without breaking them?

2.3 is "AM1" potentially the culprit, or FL ALT 100A? I admit I am struggling to follow the footnotes in the wiring diagram. My LH119 was made in Japan for the Japan market, so is it:
*1. "RHD for Europe, and all models except *2"
*2. "RHD for General, and Australia..."
*3. "Australia..."
*4. "All model, except *3..."

2.4 If AM1 was failing, why would it work after I replaced all the fuses downstream (I have an oil and gas background, not a sparky).  Or did it "reset" over time?

2.5 While I was in the battery hold, I noticed this strange floating wire. Is it a true "fusible link"? Any idea what it would be for, and how do you find out what a loose wire does...

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2.6 I also notice that the negative terminal of the battery almost (like less than 1 mm) touches the car body.

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Surely not good form, even if the ground? I guess the battery installer needed to shove it in as the FL housing has been crushed and trimmed at the other end. Should I make it all fit a little better? Any examples you can share?

Thanks for reading to the end, I really don't expect any replies, but hope this helps another newbie like me troubleshoot after they stick something inappropriate in their cigarette lighter  

Cheers  

Hey GoneWild.

Those are called fusible links nowadays. I know what you were looking for… and I wish terminology was more standardized. To me they look like fuses.

You’ll break them if you try to pull them out. They are bolted in from the bottom. You have to take the box apart, it’s straight forward, and you’ll see the bottom terminal ends bolted to a buss bar. That’s what’s keeping you from pulling them from the top. They don’t cost much to replace. I’ve popped them before replacing alternators and what not because I’m an idiot and never follow my own advice.

Good luck and God Bless
-Bryan

Thanks, Bryan!

My local car parts supplier said the same when I went to buy replacement FLs, about $10 apiece: Seems like some brands pop in, some bolt / clip in from beloe. Appreciate the tip!

I also found that the dangling wire was for a spotlight system installed by the previous owner - I think that was what caused the various fuse trips. I've cleaned them all up, put in new terminals where they were loose, and also figured out that the negative terminal of the battery touching the cabin is not a problem (not ideal either as it is sloppy) - being the ground.

Saying all this just for anyone else who happens along with the same question.

Thanks for the help.