Crank/no start/engine stall

I had an issue arise a few weeks ago. I started the van and backed up not more than 5ft and it stalled on me. When trying to start it again it would just crank but not start. I cracked an injector line and noticed no fuel was going to the engine when I would crank. One thing I would notice is there was no glow plug light and I could not hear any relays or solenoids clicking.
I unplugged the battery overnight, glow plug light came on, relays clicked, it cranked and started for a few minutes, then stalled. I could hear relays still clicking sporadically after the stall. After the stall it went back to the state of crank/no start.
I tested the spill valve and all appears to be good. Resistance is in spec, the solenoid clicks well when hooked up to 12v. From reading other threads on 1kz forums many click to leaky capacitors in the ECU. It seems to reset when I have the battery unhooked.
Others have pointed to the main fuses, specifically the glow plug fuse, visually it appears to be good, but I may replace it with a spare just to rule that one out.
Any other suggestions to test?

You might start with switching in another battery. If it's like my bmw r1200c the electronics are really sensitive to voltage drops or weak amperage. Also check grounds.

Howdy, I'll be curious what you find out. I just bought a 96 Hiace Super Custom turbo diesel. Seem to be having a similar issue of random stalling.

Very high chance its the ECU capacitors , they cause all sorts of weird symptoms . Yours sound so familiar to my SC when the ECU packed up sometimes firing up randomly stopping clicking sound from IP etc. Best solution is to find an electronics chap who can replace the capacitors the 96 era seams particularly bad , they do not have to be exactly the same as Toyota ones and are better made these days , think there may be 6 or 7 and only cost £2 or £3 each tops . I was very lucky finding someone with the skills needed because replacement new ECU,s are not available and used ones will have same problems. Also ECU repair shops were not interested , one stated we can do the repair but decline because we have no test equipment for that model , possibly because they charge hundreds for a simple job and cannot guarantee the work. Having said this SC owners in Australia have succeeded in getting a repair done.

I was able to source a spare ECU for relatively inexpensive. I'll test it out when it arrives. I'll keep you all posted on the results. In the meantime I'll be doing some maintenance as well.

Open it up and look first, it may be no better than the one you have if that is the problem. All those units of that age suffer from the leaking capacitor issue unfortunately so it's not 'if' but 'when' they fail.

So, finally put it back together. I performed GPW's cooling modification, deleted the EGR, and cleaned the intake manifold. I'll do a full write up on those topics in the future, along with some testing data.

Wanted to give some progress on this topic. When starting up the vehicle, it did not pump any fuel to the injectors with the original ECU. I was able to source a spare, and upon swapping, it pumped fuel. It even ran!
When performing the maintenance, i removed the turbo sensor, and upon unhooking the vacuum line from the sensor, the nipple on the sensor snapped off with the vacuum tube. I attempted to repair it with some JB weld. But it probably was not 100% air tight or is restricting the sensor inlet.
Im assuming that is what is causing the sporadic idle, as when I unplugged it, it idled normally.
I'm awaiting a new sensor, but if your 1kz is cranking and no fuel is going to the injectors it could very well be an ECU issue.

Have a spare ECU, wiring harness and MAP sensor available if someone needs a replacement.