Cruising Cabin 2.8L - rebuild or replace?

Hi all, hoping I can get some opinions and feedback on some issues I'm having.

I bought a 91 Cruising Cabin through Yota Imports in Bend, OR this past December. Full description of the van I'll save for another post, but I will say it's got a 2-inch lift and oversized Falken tires, I spent a good month out in Utah tramping around some wild BLM roads and man she was a beast. I really love this van, when it works it's super fun and looks fly doing it, it's perfect for me and my current adventure plans.

These aren't known for being fast whatsoever, but I don't have any experience driving other Hiaces to compare to; it did seem like it performed in line with what I could expect from other CC owners' experience, if just a tad sluggish.
However, back in March after taking it through a few states it started to act up, with a trail of black smoke behind me and stalls while going up hills. after a good month at a mechanic, where after testing the air intake system, injectors, compression (all fine at the time), it finally came back into great working shape after a retensioning and resetting of the timing belt, which apparently had some slop in it (despite it being a NEW belt, installed along with a list of other maintenance including the head gasket not long before I bought it)
Duke at Yota Imports couldn't (/wouldn't) help me figure out how this could've happened (again I'll save my opinion of that business for another post)

after that I took it through said month of 4wd fun through Utah, then shot west to the California coast, where after a few days I ran into more issues, this time really rough running/chugging, stalling at stops, and then a knocking sound that appeared, then disappeared.
I've had it at an injector specialist for 3 weeks now, and he's tested the air intake system/filter, fuel pressure to injectors and fuel filter, and the injectors themselves, all turned out to be just fine. during this time the rough-running and knocking symptoms have become more permanent.

he tells me today he did a compression test and found that the fourth cylinder in the lineup is getting less pressure than the other 3--280 on the fourth cyl, the other three more like 380.
this leads him to think (if i'm remembering him right) that it's a rod knocking due to a rod bearing having given up the ghost, and that I'll have to find someone to dig into this, which would require basically rebuilding the entire engine.

SO, what I'm asking myself and you all is, assuming he's right would it be better to get it rebuilt or to just replace it, potentially with a better engine and end up with an upgrade?
It's a 3L (2.8L) LH, non-turbo, I can go 65mph on a flat highway and about 35mph-ish uphill without my digital EGT gauge going over 1200F, which I've gathered is to be expected from this year and model. I'd been considering adding a turbocharger anyway to improve on this, maybe this could be a chance to upgrade.
I do know however that these engines fit --just so-- so swapping with a bigger or different engine might not be so easy.

I'd love to hear opinions and potential options in this area, I've found a few articles (like this one https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t3500-engine-swap-any-experience?highlight=cruising+cabin+engine) that seem to show some possibilities but I don't know if they translate to my case.

Thanks folks, and cheers!

Oh dear that's sad, personally I'd rebuild it, that way all the other bits and pieces and electrics would definitely fit. It would save on having to explain it all to your insurance company or the registration people and also the hassle of finding a new engine which you wouldn't know the history of. It will probably be easier to find a local engine rebuilder too with pistons, rods and all that stuff being easier to get delivered.

You've been perfectly happy with it up until now so why change that, it's not super fast and chugs along but that's part of it's charm. Your van is thirty two years old and still going so enjoy it for what it is an extra 10- 20 mph up a hill isn't all that important.

But that's just my opinion and you're probably going to finish up more confused as you get more suggestions.

Good luck.

ps. My van is exactly the same as yours and it happily sits at 70mph on a motorway, so a rebuild could give you a bit of a boost anyway.

@NickZ those are all great points, esp the one about insurance etc i hadn't really thought about that. and i am just fine with its speed, you're right part of the charm and forces one to enjoy the journey itself.
I might have a lead on an Aussie mechanic in a town not too too far who might just love to do the job, hopefully the price isn't too crazy but either way I'm hoping his being an Aussie will give him some prior experience working on these, which has been hard to find in mechanics so far.

cheers!

I just looked up 3l engine rebuild and there are complete kits on ebay for about $550 dollars, that's pistons, sleeves, gaskets the lot so it looks like it happens quite often. You have a fine looking specimen of a van you owe it to yourself to be back behind the wheel of it.

One good thing about doing a major job like this is that you get to sort out everything while you've got a big hole where the engine was. There are times when having an engine gets in the way !

My main question with doing that sort of thing with a hiace is how do they get the engine out ? It's not like you can winch it up from under the bonnet.

Good luck.

Hello ‘ngeo’. Interesting post.

My CC (see my show-us-yours page as my van is quite different to yours, but still a CC) sits happily at 65 mph but 70 is on the route to diminishing return of fuel etc. The gearing etc means 70 is quite high revs. If you want to see things for yourself look at: https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear

What’s your vehicle code? LH119??

I also have slightly larger tyres and this impacts on top speed but also hill climbing.

A lower compression in a cylinder doesn’t automatically link (in my mind) to knocking. Usually compression or better, a leak-down test, examines where gas in the cylinders ends up. The failure is typically head gasket, valves or piston rings. Rod knock is likely linked to big- or little-end conrod bearings. Both lower compression and rod knock might be present but they might not be related even if occurring in the same cylinder. A hew head gasket / valve and bearing set might be the fix, or it might not.

It’s really not easy to say what to do.

The problem was well-articulated in Timmy the Toolman’s recent video on a 3.4L V6, see:


On the turbo-thing, see:

https://www.northwesttoysllc.com/Toyota-3L-2-8-Liter-HiAce-Turbo-System-p/580019.htm

But this has to be fitted to a good engine, obvs. The other thing with any turbo install is to ideally fuel compensate the boost. This was done on the 2L to 2LT/E engines but to deal with this properly you’d have to fit the ‘top hat’ from a 2LT fuel pump to your 3L pump. There are / were kits for these but they are scarce now. The world has moved away from indirect injection.

If you’re fitting a different engine then this is beyond my knowledge. You’d need to find something that fits and also find the electronics. The 5L (simple) might be an option but it’s only a fraction bigger than a 3L, I think. Someone on here fitted an engine from a Volvo (V70, I think, but you’ll need a lot of fab skill and a complete donor vehicle).

I’m really keen to know what you end up doing as while my engine is fine I’m always wondering what I’d do in the same situation.

Do report back!

@LH119V thanks for your response as well, it's good to hear from multiple experienced CC owners. Van's code is LH119 yes, the paintjob mine came with indeed makes it look different but given your 'show us yours' post (which I'd already perused heavily and is a fantastic resource) i'm thinking we have pretty much the exact same rig.

i definitely see what you mean re: the knock and the compression not necessarily being related. i'm not experienced enough to confidently surmise myself but I think my mechanic's coming to this conclusion given that the knocking sound and shitty/rough running always come and go concurrently. It has a new headgasket as of this past december so I wouldn't think it's that, he's taking off the valve cover today as a last 'hail mary' but very much doubts that will do the trick. either way, I'll definitely ask him about that point.

re: the turbo and engine replace i appreciate that feedback, I've come across that exact turbo kit and no matter the case will need to wait for a better financial situation to pursue that upgrade. constantly wondering if it's even worth the cost and effort, but I definitely have time to think about it.

I'll absolutely report back, cheers

Hello.

One thing to contradict what I wrote earlier on the compression and knock thing might be if there’s reduced oil flow to that particular cylinder. I’m not familiar with how the oil flows in the 3L engine but most engines pump the oil up to the cylinder head, which then flows down through various drain galleries. There’s also pumped oil to the crankshaft and big end bearing which throws oil to the base of the pistons and onto the cylinder walls. High performance diesel engines pump oil out of the piston sides (the skirt), but I don’t know if the 3L includes this feature.

If the filter has been clogged or the oil change missed then the filter might have been bypassed and unfiltered oil put into the pumped or splash lubrication system. Also if the oil change has been neglected then there might be blockages in the pressurised or gravity system.

For this to affect the same one particular cylinder might be unlucky as the flow to the head and cam is usually unconnected to the flow to the crank etc. It’s not that all the oil is pumped to the top and there is only downward flow after that, if you see what I mean. If not, look at the oil flow around an engine on YT.

Typically cylinders furthest from the oil pump have the least flow but this is moderated by other design features.

Good luck!

Update:
@ LH119V asked mechanic about the oil pressure and flow and he says that when he had the valve gasket cover off he noted that I had great oil splash and pressure on all cylinders and didn't seem to have any blockages. he seems to know what he's doing, super well reputed with all the other mechs in the area, and is super patient answering my questions and describing in detail every little thing he does when we talk. I'd hoped on something else being the issue but it's looking like a rebuild/replace after all.

I've been calling/emailing everyone I can find in the US that deals with Hiaces and Hiace parts, and I've managed to gather some more resources:
1. Northwest Toys has offered they can order me a new crank or rod or whatever other part that I'd normally need a machinist for; again, apparently there isn't a quality machinist in the area here anymore, so this allows for the rebuild option to remain viable.
2. I've tracked down a low-miles 3L engine that actually came out of a similar year CC, so would be the exact same engine. It's been sitting on a stand in a mechanic's shop in OR for a few years. Funny fact, it actually came out of a van brought in by the dealer I bought my van from. At the time he'd thought the engine was blown, but after swapping it out the mechanic later found its lack of function to be from another issue entirely, which was fixed, and then the engine worked just fine. He'll be bench testing it before sending it, if I go that route, and he says he'll sell it to me for 'really cheap' (dont know how cheap yet)--and if it does end up a dud he'll just give me my money back.

So, rebuild and replace are both viable options that I could get the ball rolling on very soon. First I just need to confirm with the Aussie mechanic I mentioned that he's willing to do it, then, get quotes from him for labor estimates on rebuild vs. replace, get a quote on the 3L engine, and then see how the cost and timelines compare. If the replacement engine is cheap enough, I'm guessing it'd incur a good bit less of labor hours, so might end up the cheaper and quicker option.
Just waiting on the one guys who offered to connect me with this mechanic to answer his phone or call me back, which is taking a frustratingly long time!

It'll likely come down to what's cheaper, but assuming cost is comparable here's what I'm thinking:

REPLACE
PROS: - Quicker job (I'll have my van back sooner)
- Engine will have less total miles on it
CONS: - The lurking possibility of something wrong with this engine too without the full inspection one gets from rebuilding.

REBUILD
PROS: - Effectively new engine, internal inspection so more thorough, more trust in prolonged function
CONS: - Will take a good deal longer I would think.

If anyone has any pros or cons I'm not thinking of please feel free to chime in.

I'll continue to update as the situation develops. Cheers

Here's a mad idea...Do both ! Replace and rebuild !

Replace the engine, keep the old one and rebuild it. I know they're big and awkward and most people just have back up water hoses or drive belts but you could take your time re boring, polishing and all that stuff and have an awesome shiny 3L engine waiting in the wings. maybe even set that one up for your turbo.

It's obviously the most expensive option and you need more space but you don't have to rush it and can do it bit by bit. I think I'd be tempted if I had the room to do it and if you get fed up sell it.

Oh man if I only could! I don't live here though, and currently don't have a permanent residence or space (I've been 'vanlife' traveling) and don't know anyone in the area who could store it for me. I so wish i had a place with a garage to do exactly that idea and learn a TON in the process.

I do however plan on bringing up the idea in a way with the potential mechanic; they'll end up with a 3L engine that they can rebuild on their time and maybe sell themselves, so maybe he effectively buys it off me after the swapout? It's a longshot but can't hurt to ask!

If all goes according to plan me and my van will be hitting the road soon for some "van life" in South America, maybe I'll see you on the road one day.

Good luck with the mechanic and the possible trade in.