My LH119

Thank you very much cheers. I thought I really sure the cause of this problem is Left and right mounting is not correct model. Why I am sure because I search in epc web and make me more clear. Could you take a picture with right mount number? if it not make you annoy. The number of right mounting is 12311-54150 like first and second picture right? And left mounting is number 44443-26050 like third picture right?






Thank you.
Regards.

Sorn

Hello.

No problem. I'll try to get the best pictures I can of both mounts on my van but it might take a few days as I'm busy with other things.

Also, on the LH side I have the injector pump and quite a lot of ancillaries still in place that obscure quite a lot and there’s the chassis part of the mount to further make things harder. I see the number on the LH mount, which I wasn’t aware of so this is where I’ll focus.

The RH side is similar in that I still have the alternator in place by its lower pivot bolts but the upper fasteners are off. These hold the belt tension. My A/C pump is loose but still connected by hoses so I can manoeuvre it out of the way. Can you post a picture of where the part number on the RH mount’s part number is stamped, please?

My initial thought is still that it’s the top, chassis part of the LH mount that seems to be different on mine to yours. I’d find it very odd if anyone had replaced the engine-side mount parts on a 3L engine with that for a different model as this would affect how the ancillaries are arranged, buy am guessing really.

I also think this would be better as a general post rather than on my ‘show us yours’ page. Here you are only asking me. If you created a new thread then you might get a wiser and more complete audience. As I’ve written before, I’ve never removed the main (L&R) mounts and didn’t realise even how complex they are. Your pictures are educating me a lot!

Cheers,

I appreciate the information and advice you have shared. The right mounting number is upper side leg but can not directly to see because alternator in way. The first and seconds picture is right mounting number and thirds picture it has idle bearing adjusting belt.  Did you had it like a picture?
Thank you.
Regards.


Sorn

Hello Cheers, I want to create new post but i do not know how to do it. And this my new position engine after I changed correct model of mounting Left and Right leg. The engine is upper of front side like a picture below. Is it correct or not? And I do not understand why my left area of cover fan has more than right area? Sorry to reply this forum but I do not know how to create new post.
Thank you.
Regards.

Sorn

Hello

Sorry for not replying sooner but I’ve been busy.

I’ve managed to get some pictures but first wanted to mention that to create a new post there’s a ‘new post’ button on the left side of the screen at the top of the posts. Next to this is the ‘post reply’ button then the title of the forum and section that you are in. It’s just below the home, portal gallery options. It might be elsewhere if you’re viewing this as a mobile site (which I don't), but it’s right there on a computer.

As this really hasn’t got anything to do with my van please create a new post?

Anyway…
LH
For the LH side I can see that the part has the same number as yours, see:


And,


From below I can see the 44443-26050. On top, there’s the big number 5 and another number ‘92609’ cast into the part.

See:




These are the best pics I can get from the LH side.

RH
I struggled to see the number using various cameras and my endoscope but it’s clear when viewed from below and in the right illumination. It’s the same number as on your part, ‘12311-54150’.

See:


And:


So it seems you have the right bits bolted to the engine but I can’t vouch for the rubber parts of the bits on the frame. As said previously it seems that there’s an extra plate on the LH side on yours?

Almost by accident I got these decent picture of the RH side:


And


Other thoughts…
The front of the engine bay that the various covers clip down to on mine seems to be made up of three relatively straight edges with a definite flat top, see:


On yours this seems to be less obvious and seems to just generally curve round. Especially the bit near the gear selector on yours seems a bit pushed in, is how it looks to me. I know mine is a M/T and yours an auto but I’d expect the body to be the same in this area, probably? I wonder if there is some deformity in the body that has pushed the RH side of the radiator back a bit. This could be at the top or where it fixes at the bottom? This is just a suggestion but they look a bit different to me.

Here are a couple of side view pictures:


It’s ~171mm between the rear of the frame and the metal (rear) lip of the timing belt cover. As previously mentioned though I cannot guarantee my engine is spot-on correct in its position. I’ve the gearbox out (so no rear / transmission mount) and I have the rear of the engine supported on a jack.

The slope of this breaker bar:


is ~4 degrees. This might also be not quite correct as the van is on stands, but it’s reasonably level.

HTH

Thank you very much for your reply and teach me how to create new post. I had change mounting engine left and right side then position will different from your van. How ever I don't care about it right now because almost all my part is correct part number reference by epc. Next step ณ want to fix my roof because has some water drop, I will create new post. Thank you very much LH119.

Hello folks.

In the messages above are a few discussions on the main engine mounts. I hope these are useful for comparison with any issues you might have. Sorry they are not totally comprehensive and I don’t discuss the rubber mount parts. I’ve not had to tamper with these, but if you need further info on these do check out the EPC etc. If you want to know more about the EPC (or other sites) take a look at this short post:
https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t4468-part-numbers

The real purpose of this post is to mention and link the main engine mounts with the rear engine mount, which is actually on top of the transmission. I had a problem with this one where the rubber part had completely disintegrated and while fine ‘on power’, when ‘on overrun’, especially at speed or down hills where there was most engine breaking there was a horrible noise somewhere in the rear of the van, but it was hard to audibly pin this down. It might have been the rear axle somewhere, the rear diff, the rear prop shaft or the gearbox or transfer box. It was that hard to be certain.

While a bit annoyed it was the rear engine mount this was a hugely more-easy and cheap fix than any of the other potential places.

I decided to replace this engine mount when I removed the gearbox to replace the clutch along with removing a lot of the underside of the vehicle during my refurb. It’s probably possible to replace the mount without dropping the gearbox but you’ll likely need to lower the rear of the transmission as much as possible.

The rear engine or transmission mount is secured to the top of the transmission by four bolts. The mount is a simple and inexpensive catalogue part used on my vehicles so you don’t need a Toyota / OEM-specific one if you don’t want to.

As my mount had been worn out for a long time, the horizontal securing bolt was also worn and fused solid. This meant I had to remove the sturdy bracket bolted to the underside of the van (which also hosts part of the handbrake on 4WDs) and the transmission mount as a complete unit. I then cut away the failed mount and sacrificed the horizontal securing bolt to preserve the van bracket. I might have got the horizontal securing bolt free with an air hammer but it might have damaged the van bracket. I’m glad I did things this way. A new main bolt is a lot cheaper than a new van bracket.

Refitting is just the opposite of removal. There’s no play in the transmission mount but some in the van bracket. I think it’s easier to assemble the parts on the bench with the main horizontal securing bolt, then fit this to the top of the transmission then secure the van bracket to the underside once the transmission is back in place. If you can get both brackets out together by just lowering the transmission then I’d also replace the same way.

If you assemble the parts on top of the transmission it allows you to properly torque up the transmission mount before adding the van bracket. Fitting the horizontal securing bolt to mate the two brackets together under the van can be a bit hard!

I hope the following pictures help!

Cheers!

---

Poorly rear engine mount / transmission mount:


Other side:


My 'transmission jack':


In situ, though I found it much better to approach the transmission from the back (in line rather than the side). That way the lift and lower was in the same direction as the securing fasteners. The 5mm steel plate was threaded to allow good adjustment of the bolts to micro-adjust the wooden cross pieces. These could then be adjusted in situ to enable pitch and roll of the transmission and meant the mounting bolts were not stressed. You can see I just mounted the steel plate in place of the normal trolley jack cup and pad. This made everything solid enough:


From above. It's not necessary to open this hatch to replace the engine mount, but it makes removing the transmission a lot easier. Plenty of Toyotas don't have this hatch. Getting at this hatch in a camper is a lot of work!


Ready to remove the transmission. Note that I have the van's bottle jack supporting the rear of the engine to keep some semblance of alignment and to avoid putting too much strain on the main engine mounts:


Transmission out. You can see the four mounting holes for the rear engine mount here. (The small amount of work on the transmission is for elsewhere. I'll just mention the clutch friction plate only had 0.3mm of material left so a perfect time to do this before the rivets chew into the flywheel!).


Oh and pilot bearing out with the 'bread and grease method!'


Back to the mount. Both brackets. Note the handbrake cable attachment:


How I got the brackets apart to preserve the van bracket:


Lastly two possibly tantalising pictures showing the now complete refurb of the 4WD vacuum system…


And removal of the gear selector to replace the little rubber boot underneath, which has perished.


More of these and other jobs in due course!

Hello LH119V and AgathaAlice - I recently became the proud owner of the exact same van, in Australia. So awesome to find you both here.

Build plate says LH119, no "V", but elsewhere it is included, so I'm thinking the V is redundant?

The mod plate says it seats 5, but the import plate says 2 (it still has seatbelts for 5).

Mine has the original internal fit out, with Japanese electric plugs. I may leave as is, but gosh it's heavy. A reconfig internally would shed 100kg easily. That 1990s chipboard..!

It's awesome to see these posts, thank you, especially the cooling system overhaul. The prev owner (one owner since being imported) overheated the transmission system when he tried to tow a trailer, and the head gasket on the engine blew. Repairs were done by a good mechanic, and it's working fine, but I'll be doing a full inspection as best as my abilities will allow. It seems a transmission cooling fan and radiator was installed.

I will be looking to install an engine and AT fluid temp sensor so I can monitor.

By the way LH119, thanks for the reply on the locking hubs, so relieved that my first project will be straightforward. I'm on a week break now, with the camper by the beach (not using 4wd yet).

My pop top is in great condition, but for a tear in one top corner (last owner hit a tree branch). I'll be looking at repair one day.

The pop top is HEAVY, may look at gassing the struts or putting in something to allow my partner to pop the top alone without having to use her head!

Top priority is rust around the windscreen and external power inlet (badly fitted).

Less important, I have a sticky passenger window to ease, a really bad radio to replace with one that includes a reversing camera (it's a long wheel base... a long way to the back of the van), and redoing the insulation and sound deadening around the engine. It's shredded, my guess from the overheating but 30 years on it's pretty good. I drive with a sheepskin over the entire front seat, catches 50% of all the heat generated.

After those details, I'll decide whether to change the interior or just update it. I have lots of thoughts, but will spenda year using the camper before reconfiguring. There's something about the retro 1992 fit out that's quite cute - even if those ice cream bucket bins are really quite impractical.

I'd like to fit it out as a mobile office....

GW (Gone Wild)

Gonewild wrote:

Hello LH119V and AgathaAlice - I recently became the proud owner of the exact same van, in Australia. So awesome to find you both here.

Build plate says LH119, no "V", but elsewhere it is included, so I'm thinking the V is redundant?

The mod plate says it seats 5, but the import plate says 2 (it still has seatbelts for 5).

Mine has the original internal fit out, with Japanese electric plugs. I may leave as is, but gosh it's heavy. A reconfig internally would shed 100kg easily. That 1990s chipboard..!

It's awesome to see these posts, thank you, especially the cooling system overhaul. The prev owner (one owner since being imported) overheated the transmission system when he tried to tow a trailer, and the head gasket on the engine blew. Repairs were done by a good mechanic, and it's working fine, but I'll be doing a full inspection as best as my abilities will allow. It seems a transmission cooling fan and radiator was installed.

I will be looking to install an engine and AT fluid temp sensor so I can monitor.

By the way LH119, thanks for the reply on the locking hubs, so relieved that my first project will be straightforward. I'm on a week break now, with the camper by the beach (not using 4wd yet).

My pop top is in great condition, but for a tear in one top corner (last owner hit a tree branch). I'll be looking at repair one day.

The pop top is HEAVY, may look at gassing the struts or putting in something to allow my partner to pop the top alone without having to use her head!

Top priority is rust around the windscreen and external power inlet (badly fitted).

Less important, I have a sticky passenger window to ease, a really bad radio to replace with one that includes a reversing camera (it's a long wheel base... a long way to the back of the van), and redoing the insulation and sound deadening around the engine. It's shredded, my guess from the overheating but 30 years on it's pretty good. I drive with a sheepskin over the entire front seat, catches 50% of all the heat generated.

After those details, I'll decide whether to change the interior or just update it. I have lots of thoughts, but will spenda year using the camper before reconfiguring. There's something about the retro 1992 fit out that's quite cute - even if those ice cream bucket bins are really quite impractical.

I'd like to fit it out as a mobile office....

GW (Gone Wild)

Hello ‘Gonewild’.

Many thanks for your post and kind comments.

I’ll try to answer your points in order.

On my build plate the V is included in the model, which reads ‘U-LH119V-RRMES’, but the V is not in the frame number.
I don’t have a mod plate but my V5c (the registration doc) says it seats 7. A previous owner had additional seatbelts professionally fitted with two additional ones on the rear row of seats and 1 on the swivel seats so I have 5, three-point belts in total.

Mine is also original fit out, which I think is part of the charm. It would seem odd to me to buy a 90s van and then rip out everything to replace. I will be changing various aspects but I want it to look fairly original. I’ve got the cupboards out as part of my refresh and most of it is over-engineered. A router would take away a lot of the unnecessary weight and the ice-cream hatches could do with being added to, to help access. I think it’s mostly MDF and parts would benefit from internal sealing with varnish or epoxy (or whatever) to limit water absorption near the fridge etc. I’m also intending to re-spray various bits of the internal cabinetry. The table is also very heavy and the seats, too but hey ho.

Take a look at the EPC for your van. You might find the fans and radiator are part of the OEM set up, especially if they are part of the lower (horizontal) radiator. Mine is a manual, but if I had an auto I’d add a fluid to air auto cooler. I’m not sold on dumping trans heat into the radiator as in the OEM setup.

There are loads of great temp sensors out there. This (from JRP):

is something that I’ve been looking at.

How did you get on with the front hubs?

My pop top is the opposite to heavy. It flies up and realy doesn’t need the support bar. I suspect you need new struts or re-gas. These are not expensive. Over here I’d use:
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts

Take a look at the site for comparison.

I don’t have any electrical hook up. The manual indicates that some vans do and did, but it would be fairly obsolete by now and it’ll be incorporated into my refresh.

I think I’ll add the 240V socket in the outer (RH) lower box where the greywater tank sits. It seems that there’s plenty of room for one of these (for example): https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-16a-2p-e-surface-inlet-200-250v/100jr, but I’ve not got this fixed in anyway, yet.

My audio is also junk and I’ll be fitting an ATOTO, with a reversing camera, I think. g00se, on here, has just done this, and written a very detailed post, which I need to read.

Cheers!

Hey LH, I’m coming back to a few of these great pointers, thanks. Loving my LH119, every day I find new quirks. And I agree, the more I use the internal fitout the more I want to keep it, space and weight issues aside.

I fixed the manual locking hubs early on, no problem - there was a bent inner spring seat. It was soft metal so I managed to tap it back into shape and will give it a good test one day. Saved me heaps having to just ask a mechanic to replace them.

To a more mundane and less messy discovery, today I discovered the little one way valves in the wiper washer hose connectors. I found they have little inner springs, who knew. And they were a bugger to get clean. All good now.

I’m having rust around the windscreen cut out this summer (down under) so I will be ordering a pair of new nozzle sprays as I fully expect the old ones to crack on the way out. The plastic looks very brittle.

I’ve replaced all my inner bulbs and quite a few fuses, and will be working on a new radio coming up - will check out g00se’s post, thanks.

Hope you are well and motoring along.

GW