1kz - te Super custom Fault - loss of power

im convinced its the injector pump or ecu. I have a friend with a 1kz-te hilux surf. will the ecu fit if i try it? whats the chance of damaging his ecu?

Different Toyota part numbers, but perhaps you could do what I intend and put your ECU in his and see what works?

Why don't you live round the corner not about as far apart as we can make it!

You can test the throttle position sensor(somewhere on here) by using the on board diagnostics port and connecting a multimeter between certain tabs.This would tell you if there was any descrepancy when warm and cold.I wouldnt have thought it was this though,i think id have been looking at an air leak thats sealing when warm maybe.If its clearing when the engine is warm i wouldnt have thought it was electrical as they usually fail when they get hot after use.You could try warming the e.c.u.board with a hair dryer from cold just to eliminate that theory possibly.Good luck.

It don't go completely away when hot. When in low revs the ECU(D) is running the engine as the TPS signal is being ignored, not discounting TPS yet though as I would prefer a cheaper fix!

The on line 1KZ-TE Toyota manual fron the Hilux Australia site lists the tests. And the fault codes but we don't get any faults. This is what points me to the ECU as it thinks it is functioning correctly no fault registered.

I've turned the throttle stop screw up so i don't get stalling when coming to a stop and of course removing the getting started when it does. Just goes into gear with a bit of a thump, drivable but not right.

Maybe cross reference (what fitted to what) all sensors you can...there should then be some info available somewhere to test with ohm/voltmeter...as maximus says the throttle pot is one that can be tested at various settings.
Can't say that I'd trust the toyota electrical connections....bit like the undisturbed overhead lamp being sporadic/not working cured by cleaning up the pole sleeve connector arrangement and compressing the sleeve part of the connnection...it looked perfect... but that was the cure.
I'd certainly try testing with a multimeter the signals at both ends of all engine sensor/ecu connectors to ensure signals are flowing properly

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This is what points me to the ECU as it thinks it is functioning correctly no fault registered.

Have to wonder what the ecu is feeding its signal to after it decides its happy...wonder if the fault is there?....

Clive wrote:

It don't go completely away when hot.
I've turned the throttle stop screw up so i don't get stalling when coming to a stop and of course removing the getting started when it does. Just goes into gear with a bit of a thump, drivable but not right.

I too have had to adjust my engine idle up to stop it from stalling!! the day i got it back from the mechanic the first time it kept dying at intersections.

just to confirm we have the same fault:

low end power all the time, engine temp or running time does not make any difference, its just guttless when you put your foot down but once up to speed it seems to have liveable top end.

The no response thing seems to be a bye product of the fault and usually only happens at start up from cold, it will go away after idling for a minute or two then responds normally to pedal operation. Sometimes when warm it wont pull away in first gear without waiting for 2 to 3 minutes after start up. you can put foot to the floor, it trys to take of but not enough revs.

The no response thing seems to be a bye product of the fault and usually only happens at start up from cold, it will go away after idling for a minute or two then responds normally to pedal operation. Sometimes when warm it wont pull away in first gear without waiting for 2 to 3 minutes after start up. you can put foot to the floor, it trys to take of but not enough revs.

Yep, with initial cranking if 10 seconds or so to get it to fire from cold, 2 or 3 from hot.

Ok, so it looks to be the same thing. Im going to try and get another ecu and try that, failing that i can get a second hand but unproven injection pimp and try that, they dont fall out of trees but they are out there, ive seen them go for around NZ$350. Jeez id be pissed off it it didnt fix it though.

will any 1kz-te pump fit as hilux surf motors are easier to come by here than super custom.?

It`s just a thought but have you tried posting stuff on hilux forums as they share the same engines and there are plenty about.

I've contacted some on the Oz Hilux forum, even thought about using the Hikux ECU as they are far cheaper and plentiful.

I'm sure it is not the pump, just the instruction going to it.

i had a spare half hour tonight and started "playing" around looking for split hoses and loose connections. Bloody southern hemesphere daylight savings means its too dark to do anything serious. I will have a better look on the weekend. one thing i did discover was that if i pulled one of the injector pump plugs off while it was running it reved its tits off and blew black smoke, probably not good for it, but i hadnt had it rev like that in a long time.

It will do as you over fuel the other cylinders. Note don't do this infront of a caravan, well not unless you want a matt black and very dirty one!

This morning started as normal after 10 seconds or so of cranking and ticked over around 500 rpm. I had left the A/C on from yesterday so flicked the fan to off and instantly the engine burst into normal tickover.

maybe just a fluke or could it be a power drain to somewhere?

Bloody hell I hope this gets sorted for you blokes.

I can't see it being the pump or injectors physically anyway, damn near has to be electrical.

They would be a great little donk without all the electronics. Inline pump and all nice and simple..

PROGRESS!!!!

Well today i got all enthusiastic and downloaded the 1kz manual, went out and removed all the front seats and started going through the manual. I removed the cast aluminum pipe that runs between the turbo and air inlet manifold and found that there is 2 throttle body butterfly. the large main one and the smaller sub one. the smaller sub valve is operated by an actuator which operates though engine vacuum via some electrical solenoids. I found that the vacuum hoses on the solenoids were connected incorrectly. I connected them as per page ED13 in the manual. I started the van and yippie!!! it starts first turn of the key.

it appears that at start up or low revs the sub throttle body flap is closed or near closed and when you put your foot down it opens up to throw more air down the intake.

I also noticed that when you turn the engine off you can hear a click and a distinctive hiss of air. and when you turn the key onto ACC before start up you can hear a similar noise. my van never did this before but used to. I took it for a quick drive and it didn't seem overly powerful but definitely better at low revs and start up.

CLIVE - remove your passenger seat, remove the gearbox tunnel cover behind the center console which will give you good access to all hoses and solenoids and check them. Do you get the click and hiss thing happening when shutting engine down and when turned to ACC before start up??

Nice one Steve, lets hope this sorts it for everyone, maybe worth a can of carb cleaner down there too...

ok, so it definitely starts and idles better but its still gutless and i got a NEW problem. Under acceleration, while im waiting for the sudden kick of power the motor makes a farting noise and there is a large plume of white/blue smoke behind me. It does it only for a second but its enough to provide an impressive James bond smoke screen. Its never done this before??

Maybe i colud sell my motor to a local fisherman to use as a boat anchor??

Pretty sure I checked them before but perhaps one of the valves is U/S? I'll check on the EPC, if they are the same part number I'll switch the pipes around and see what happens as I don't get a click or hiss that I can hear. Having just typed that I think it would be a failure and not wrongly plumbed, but a second check has got to be worth it!

I noticed when checking the throttle that the second smaller throttle is in the wide open position, so this be almost closed? So then that would be a fault on mine.

May not be the answer but may help? Won't have time to play until the weekend. Despite the hard to start thing just done a 600 Km trip and it ran like a dream.

Hope you guys find the problem....have you tried testing individual vac lines with a vacuum guage?...(ie:'mighty vac' or similar) ...leaks can be tricky to find without...also a multimeter on any relevant electric solenoids?

I changed all the vac lines just in case there was a split. Not tested the leccy bits but will do. Not got a vac guage but local garage has.

Not the same parts 90910-12126 is the one nearest the rocker cover, 90910-12146 is the other. Price £ 75 and £74 plus vat so I'll be looking around the scrap yards!

Blue white is likely to be oil and/or Diesel burning. I'd look at the waste gate actuator on the turbo to see if it moves freely (you can push it by hand) and/or if it is excesively oily around the diaphragm housing. If there is a lag in the turbo spinning up then the ecu will be overfuelling. May also account for the gutless performance, mine is like a raging dog and wanted to run well over the legal road speed limit of 113KPH. I did slip the lead a couple of times but my bottle went at 140Kms

my van has no problem cruising at 130kph if i wanted it to, just gutless down low. Im going to look at turbo this weekend. might take TPS readings too. One thing that was suggested was a lack of fuel or restriction in the fuel line pick up from the tank. I would imagine that it would struggle at high speed rather than low? But i was told that the turbo may be offsetting the poor fueling and appairing to run ok top end power.

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I did slip the lead a couple of times but my bottle went at 140Kms

Oh Clive...you are showing your age now

No just a clean license!

Fuel starvation may be a problem but I think it would cut down the power at top end more than the bottom end.

PROGRESS - I've done nothing but 4 times out of 4 today, after the usual cranking, engine has gone straight to normal tickover! Perhaps it was the weekend trip cleaned something up?

Still going to look at all the vac piping and maybe de gunk the throttle housing and inlet manifold.

Right regress as to starting back to the 2 minute 500rpm thing see below.

Had all pipes off and checked all ok, all electrical connections off and all ok. Checked valves and I think they work. Degreased as best I could.

I did not take the rear engine cover/access panel of as it appears to have a pipe in the middle of it running up to the cool box. As i typed this I thought is it just the drain?

OK start the beast, I had a can of Diesel inlet cleaner that you spray into the air intake, so while I had 2 minutes to wait I did just that and the engine sprang into life.

On the throttle housing and fed by these vacuum valves is an actuator. You can see the spindle end from the front and can tell if it moves. I pulled the top hose off and nothing. I put a direct vac feed to it and nothing. I pulled the bottom one off and spindle moved and engine died. Replaced and restart (tried a squirt again with similar results), could not get the top part to do anything.

On a real down side while getting up close I noticed a bubble appear around no3 glow plug tasted it and it was water so I guess the head is cracked for sure.

thats bad news Clive, im afraid that could be my problem as well, i just dont want to admit it. ive given up again.