1KZ-TE Oil Pressure Gauge Install

I'm going to install an oil pressure gauge in my van and am trying to decide where to put the sender. The two places I'm considering at the moment are 1) the plug at the back of the oil cooler assembly just before the oil returns to the block, or 2) using an adapter to add a second port where the factory sensor is installed.  My engine is currently out of the van and disassembled so I'm not able to check if there is enough space in either of these locations.  I would very much appreciate if someone with a 1KZ powered van could take a look in their engine bay and let me know if there is sufficient clearance in either spot.

Location 1:  I've highlighted the aforementioned port in the attached images:




To install the sender in this spot I would drill a hole through the plug and weld on a hexagonal threaded port in which the sender can be installed, and which also will serve to allow re-installation of the plug with a wrench since drilling a hole in it will delete the 10mm hex socket.  I estimate I need about 70mm of clearance straight back from the plug for this spot to work.

Location 2:  Piggyback off the factory sender

I can use an adapter that adds a second port where the factory sender is installed (also visible in the pictures just right of the oil filter mount).  For this location I'd need about 100mm of clearance straight out from the base of the factory pressure sender, and also 70mm towards the back of the engine since the aftermarket sender threads in perpendicular to the adapter.  For those not familiar with these adapters, here's a link to help you visualize the installation: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-8-bspt-male-to-1-8-27-npt-female-hex-thread-adapter/

No takers? In the pictures I've been looking at it looks like a busy area - trans dip stick, wiring harness , starter. I'm worried something will be in the way, but like I said I can't check because my engine is out and disassembled. I haven't been able to find any detailed pictures of the area.

This pic is the best I've found, and it looks like the back of the oil cooler is clear, but I'd like to be sure.

Hello.

Nice and interesting post. Adding various better engine and other sensors are on my to-do list. What are you doing gauge-wise? I’m tempted by this:


And / or one of the four channel temp units that also have settable audio level (think they are called Engine Watchdog) just can’t find the thing online at the mo but they are also common in Oz.

Anyway, give it a bit of time for folks to view, consider and get back.

I don’t have the same engine but I think I’d T-off the current sender. Presumably Toyota put the current one (though it’s seemingly a dumb on/off switch) in the ‘right’ place to detect the ‘right’ sort of signal. I expect this is to detect low oil pressure when the oil is at its warmest or as a result of some other engine characteristics.
To be definitive and without consideration to available space try to take a look at the oil circulation system and then determine your ideal place according to oil pump, oil galleries and other things. Perhaps you might want to measure oil pressure in relation to the turbo and this might influence your choice?

There are lots of pictures of the 1KZ engine on here, but it’s not easy to search. Plus on other forums but again the application might be quite different. Hopefully you’ll get something shortly.

A couple of other things to consider are the chances of fatigue failure (through vibration) and whether you might need a supporting bracket in either of your options, plus the ease or not of wiring. You might have to wait until the engine is back in to button everything up, but hopefully not.

Sorry to not be more definitive, but

HTH!

Neat gauge setup in the video.  Great price for the amount of info you get.  I'm partial to analog myself though. Especially for dynamic parameters like EGT.  With a needle you don't have to look directly at the gauge to read it so you can keep your eyes on the road.

I'm installing EGT, boost, water temp, oil pressure, and trans temp.

I bought electronic stepper motors gauges from a US company called speedhut.  very customizable and no big logo on the face.  They have built in programmable alarms and warning lights as well.  I couldn't find anyone selling something that matches the yellow toyota needlesa though.

Electronic gauges are nice because they're shallow (only 30mm for the ones's I bought) and lightweight, so you have a lot more more options when in comes to installation.


Regarding pressure sender placement for the oil gauge,  Both options are suitable.  No concerns about vibration.  Both are immediately downstream of the filter which is where you want it.

Speednut is a great make. I’ve seen them fitted in boats etc. I can’t see you having any problems with those. Also, can’t fault your preference for dials. Dial gauges whether digital or analogue can be reassuringly tapped. You’d never do this to a LCD screen!

Seems your parameter choices are also sound. There are several posts on here that describe the wide, middle dead-spot for the OEM coolant temp gauges. This can be changed by altering the resistor in the cluster circuitry. Doesn’t sound too complicated but it’s work. Adding another you’ll be in the camp of the man with two watches but you might trust the new one more fully.

Interesting you mention to put the oil pressure sender just after the filter. I can see your logic, and while I don’t know where OEs put their senders this position might show a higher pressure level than elsewhere.

Really keen to see how you progress on this and where you put the gauges and senders. Please do consider making more posts.

Thanks.

Yes, I've read GPW's thread about removing the zener diode from the gauge cluster temp gauge. I may do it in the future for fun, but I want numbers so that I can quantify the performance of the cooling system and the effects of any modifications I make.

Immediately after the filter is the preferred location as this will alert you to a clogged filter, and shows you the pressure of the oil before it enters the block and goes to work as a lubricant. So you're seeing what the entire engine is getting. This is where the OEM sender is, and the same port is used for testing oil pressure, so if you install your sensor somewhere further downstream your numbers may not be the same as what's in the service manual.

As far as installing my sensor goes, I did some research, and the factory sensor serves only to illuminate the oil light on the dash. Since my new gauge has a brighter, better warning light I've opted to remove the factory sensor and install mine in it's place. The OEM sensor is 1/8 BSPT while my new one is 1/8 NPT. These are close but not identical with a difference of 1 thread per inch. So a difference of about 1/4 thread over the 1/8 inch thickness of the metal the sensor sits in. Small enough that I decided to just re-tap the existing threads to 1/8 NPT, and it worked. Job done.

Thanks for your reply.

Further sound advice and work.