Newly imported from Japan -- reccommeded maintenainance.

New to me Living Saloon EX arriving in Tacoma on the boat this week.   It has  209,000km on a 1KZTE with automatic transmission and 4wd as well as 8 passenger seating.
I have a mechanic that I have used for decades on my Japanese made vehicles with excellent service.    This beast will be a new experience for him.   I'm planning on having him perform a "used car, find all that is wrong" assessment.   Based on other things I read so far, I'm figuring on:

1 ) Replacing the timing belt (last changed at 95,000km)
2 ) Alternator belts
3 ) Changing engine oil and oil filter
4 ) Replacing the fuel filter
5 ) "flushing" the radiator
6 ) Changing the transmission fluid
7 ) Replacing the battery.
8 ) Possibly replacing the tires based on age and condition.

Based on other's experiences , are there other items that folks recommend preemptively servicing / replacing?


Also I want to carry sea kayaks up top and bikes on "2 inch receiver" trailer hitch type rack.   Do people have any recommendations on roof top racks and tow hitches?   I'm also pondering installing a "2 inch reciever" in front to carry bikes up their so rear hatch access is easy.  But I wonder about bikes blocking air flow to the radiator.   Anyone have experience with carrying bikes up front on on of these machines?

Thanks in advance.

Nice!!

Hello and welcome to the Forum.

That looks really nice!

Your list seems sensible.

Replacing the timing and auxiliary belts is fairly straight forward. I don’t have a 1KZ but in the pictures I’ve seen of that engine, the oil filter is upside down so might spill when removed.

Fuel  filter is easy, just a typical indirect injection and no tank lift-pump so it’s generally necessary to systematically bleed the system for best results.

In my ‘show us yours’ section, see:
https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t4317-my-lh119#24648
I’ve written extensively on the cooling system in my van including how I flushed mine. You probably have two front radiators but a little more complex (see below).

For the transmission I’d follow manufacturer’s guidance (see below). Some don’t like a full drain and refill. I have a MT but I think some autos have additional internal filters etc that need the pan removing to swap these. Be guided by how it drives and the condition of the fluid. Also most(?) have a cooler built into the main (upright) radiator. This is OEM but gives opportunities for coolant and ATF to mix if something goes wrong. It might be something to change to an alternative transmission cooler, but just a suggestion.

I’d give the battery an opportunity to recover, especially if the van has not been used. Some vans have a double front battery setup and rear leisure one. Some are simpler.

Only comment on tires is to put sizes into online comparison site such as:
https://tiresize.com/calculator/

There are lots of tow hitch options and a Forum search should yield something but the Forum is not that easy to search. I’ve posted about the difference between the rear bumpers (with or without a step).
Example of another post is:
https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t4333-some-pictures-of-my-1993-lh119

For the UK (just a suggestion) have a look at:
https://www.watling-towbars.co.uk/
For both front and rear. @Merlin_ on here has a YT channel and had fitted a front winch and in his posts (and YTs) he shows some options.

For servicing and parts etc, get the details off the build plate (under LH seat), then head over the the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue. The landing page is:
https://toyota.epc-data.com/regius_ace/

This is a fabulous resource and tailor this to your van. It also links through to Amayama but there are also plenty of other purchase sites such as MezaZip.

Also head over to Hiacesoutheast and peruse and download all the stuff there. There are also some parts listed, which might be handy.

Lastly, consider making a ‘show us yours’ page.

HTH

Hey Randy.

List looks great. I have a note I’m constantly updating with part numbers and whether they can be bought off the shelf in America. I’ll attach it below to help.

Have fun! We are right down the street if you need help

HiAce 1KZ-TE 4WD A340F

Part numbers

Valve cover gasket: 11213-67010
Water pump: 16100-69355
Fan Clutch (blue) FCT-004 (LandCruiser) US
Upper radiator hose: 16572-67040
Lower radiator hose: 16571-67040
Thermostat: 90916-03098
Thermostat gasket: 16346-67010
Sub radiator short hose: 16552-67010
Sub radiator long hose: 16551-67010

Timing belt: 13568-69085. (1990-06 land cruiser) US
Timing belt idler: 13505-67050 (1990-06 land cruiser) US
Timing belt tensioner: 13540-67010 (90-06 land cruiser) US
Camshaft seal: forgot

Alt belt: 90916-02385 (1990-2006 land cruiser). (17385 locally) US
AC compressor belt: 90916-02390 (17460 locally) US
Air filter: 17700-67070
Alternator: 27060-67040 or alternator from 1993 22R pickup US
AC Compressor Denso 10PA17C from 1992 Land Cruiser US
Oil filter: 90915-30002 or Fram PH 6357 US
Fuel filter: 23303-64010 (83-87 Corolla, 90-2006 land cruiser) US


Brake caliper R/H: 47730-26130
Brake caliper L/H: 47750-26130
Brake pad set: 04491-26340
Front cv shaft: 43430-26020
U joint: 04371-30021. (1995-04 Tacoma) US
R/h tie rod end: 45046-29215
L/H tie rod end: 45046-29215

Keyless fob: 89705-26010
Condenser fan motor: 88550-26050

Wow, that is an awesome trove of information, thanks so much!!!

But wait there’s more Sir:

Hiace Dimensions:

Length 15’ 2” (182”)
Width 5’ 6.5” (66.5”)
Height 6’ 5” (77”)
Weight 4431

Fuel 18.49 Gal (diesel)
Hp 130 hp
Torque 214 lb-ft

Seats 7
Ground clearance 7.3”
Engine 1KZ-TE
Trans A340F
Axle G295 (8” 4.100 LSD 4 pinions)
Headlights. Standard H4

-Battery dimensions-
12”L x 6.8”W x 8 3/4” H
308 x 172 x 225
Group 27

Tires:
215-75-R15
15x5.5 6 lug wheels
Lug nut torque 80ft-lbs

Map lights BA9s bayonet (57)
Door, floor, entry lights 3175 31mm festoon

Oh and finally Sir, recommend you get some of this to help your mechanical fuel pump stay lubricated and happy with the modern fuels at the pumps:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanadyne-38560-Diesel-Lubricity-Formula/dp/B01LREX72A/ref=psdc_15718791_t3_B009LPTCF4

Oil changes are 3k miles, just oil, and then oil and filter at the next one. No need for synthetic with such an often schedule. Holds roughly 8qts with filter.

Hi - the van looks great!

Just something else to consider - after watching the nathansharma87 youtube channel, it may be worth replacing the coolant temperature sensor on the engine. It's probably over 25 years old and he suggests the old ones can start to read low. And with the possible overheating issues, it won't hurt putting a new one in.

He's also got a two hour walk-though for inspecting a super custom if you were buying one in the flesh - can't hurt running through parts of that even though yours is already in your possession,

blgravely wrote:

Oh and finally Sir, recommend you get some of this to help your mechanical fuel pump stay lubricated and happy with the modern fuels at the pumps:

The 1KZ-TE doesn’t have a mechanical fuel pump, it’s EFi- ECU controlled.

blgravely wrote:

But wait there’s more Sir:

Axle    G295  (8” 4.100 LSD  4 pinions)

No LSD in the Super Custom. The viscous coupling in the full-time 4WD centre diff/transfer system negates the need.

RandyOakley wrote:

1 ) Replacing the timing belt (last changed at 95,000km)
2 ) Alternator belts
3 ) Changing engine oil and oil filter
4 ) Replacing the fuel filter
5 ) "flushing" the radiator
6 ) Changing the transmission fluid
7 ) Replacing the battery.
8 ) Possibly replacing the tires based on age and condition.

Based on other's experiences , are there other items that folks recommend preemptively servicing / replacing?

Replace water pump at same time as timing belt.
Radiator fan clutch: either replace or drain/refill with fluid.
I’d recommend also replacing all rubber vacuum hoses. There’s about 7 or so separate hoses (from memory) and critical for function of turbo/air/fuel metering, EGR etc. Modern silicon hose is good replacement.

Check condition of engine mounts and transmission mounts. Common to be rotted out and failed but not replaced.

Very nice wagon. But just remember it’s almost 30 years old so every suspension joint amd rubber engine component needs checking.

Oh and for trans fluid I’d recommend ONLY using mineral DEX3.
Synthetic fluids can cause problems.

I think you have covered off neglected /unknown servicing.... maybe a brake flush also. Those 2 websites above will be your go to resource for hunting parts. Toss your frame number into epc-data and drill into the schematics to get oem part number. Goigle the part number twice... once with dash, once without dash.... and find overseas and local part suppliers. Toss oem part number into ToyoDIY, tick all boxes.. and you will see other toyotas that shared that part.... useful if trying for 2nd hand parts. Also try Aussie facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/1141854499504688/?ref=share for a helpful community.

Check your build plate... you might have factory rear LSD like me

Before attaching anything like a bike or hitch receiver or spare tyre... check your local laws and think about potential pedestrian injury.

Unlikely that your mechanic will be able to get any sense out of the non obd2 protocol ecu. Google up techstream and J2534 cable to see if you could get some joy there.... check if you have a driver knee OBD2 style port first.

geoffreyKZH138V wrote:

Check your build plate... you might have factory rear LSD like me

Interesting. Is yours a SuperCustom or standard van? Manual or auto? 4WD?

What’s going on Pete?

Couldn’t be more wrong. Why would you reach into a post that I was helping someone with?

Our van absolutely has a LSD rear end, and a mechanical fuel pump. The fact that it has electronic controls has nothing to do with how it mechanically operates… hence the lubrication recommendation.

Don’t argue with me, argue with Toyota.

Have an awesome weekend
-Bryan

Thanks for all the useful information.

I'm considering whether is prudent / worthwhile to arrange to have the vehicle towed from the dock to my place (40 miles distance) so I can fully inspect it's condition before driving it.

For other folks that have self-imported -- what sort of issues have you run into driving the vehicle away from the dock? What sort of red flags should I look for in a quick inspection at the dock where it would be wise to call for a tow instead of attempting to drive?

As a minumum, if I try to drive it, I'll bring a jump battery, some 10-30 engine oil and some coolant -- but I'm wondering what else I might need.

blgravely wrote:

What’s going on Pete?


Have an awesome weekend
-Bryan

Fair enough, didn’t mean to offend, just have a knee jerk reaction to misinformation no matter the intent, especially when selling products.
Suggesting diesel oil needs an extra oil addiditive for lubrication in a relatively (!) low pressure pump is snake oil.

Definitely not correct to call it a mechanical fuel pump, that is different setup which was on the previous engines. Not that uncommon a conversion on these and the HiLux to revert to mechanical injector pump when parts unavailable.

I’ve never seen a mid 90s 4WD Auto with a G295 lsd, and I’ve seen a lot of them both here in NZ and in Japan.

If it’s on the chassis plate, I stand corrected.

Again didn’t mean to offend, have a great day too.

Pete

You pieced through multiple posts to find something to complain about.

The pump is mechanical
It is absolutely high pressure direct injection. Not low pressure as you said above. (It’s 2,150-2,260 psi)
You are confusing the electrical timing aspect with how it generates fuel pressure.
Diesel require high pressure injection. Low pressure is not an option.
This is not a common confusion, it seems to only affect you.

Argue with Toyota, not me.

Also argue how you will replace the sulphur lubricant that is no longer in US fuels.  I’ll wait. The product I recommended is industry standard. Argue with them too. I’m struggling to find the point you’re making when everything you have said is incorrect.

But the next person who doesn’t know me that says I am recommending snake oil when they don’t appear to understand the simple differences I point out above will get me off these forums.

Out
-Bryan

Pete_nz wrote:

geoffreyKZH138V wrote:

Check your build plate... you might have factory rear LSD like me

Interesting. Is yours a SuperCustom or standard van? Manual or auto? 4WD?

mine is a KZH138V 2001

Pete_nz wrote:

Check condition of engine mounts and transmission mounts. Common to be rotted out and failed but not replaced.

Thanks Pete! I just got mine in a few weeks ago. When coming to a complete stop it has quite a bit of shake/vibration. Everything runs quite well, and I'm working through the list myself. Wondering if you could help me locate replacement mounts from https://toyota.epc-data.com/? Or where else you would locate them? I can't seem to nail them down in any of the diagrams.

Thank you!