1kzte hard start first thing - problem solving

imants wrote:

Im thinking you might want to double check the glow plug resistance.  You wrote that you measured 1.2-1.8 ohms on your GP.

From memory I had my good ones measuring around 0.7 ohms and factory spec is 0.72ohms @ 20C.  Anything about 1 ohm would be no good.  

If you have time, then look up on internet 1KZ-TE engine manual and find section about glow plugs there.  There you will have factory specs for glow plug resistance and how to test them.  I can provide the pdf file, but I am sure what is correct etiquette to do that on forum.  Perhaps someone can advice.

Everything else failing, remove glow plugs and attach them all in series and test them visually by glowing them about 10sec.  In 10 sec time they should be almost white from heat.  Just make sure you DO NOT test them directly from battery as that will give to many volts.  From memory HiAce I think has glow plug circuit on 11 volts for some reason.  Have your test rig rigged in a way that you feed power from original glow plug wire powering the glow plugs in engine.


I had whitish/grayish smoke when 2 of my glow plugs were not working properly for about 30-60sec when starting cold engine...

thats been my point the entire time - i think i got bad ones.  Im changing them out tommorrow..... again.

have you tried bleeding the fuel filter? - loosen the bleed at the bottom and pump out water.

RWP in Philly wrote:

have you tried bleeding the fuel filter? - loosen the bleed at the bottom and pump out water.

new filter was done a week ago

From what I understand from factory manual about 1KZ-TE engine, the glow plugs are supplied with 11V, so there are some electronics at play, which limit power supplied to 11V. I think it would be still prudent to do all the testing from wire supplying glow plugs with power. At the same time you would see if electronics are supplying enough current to glow plugs as they are operated.

According to kelt2 he had the glow plugs changed when he got the van and he is getting readings of 1.2-1.8 ohms on those "new" plugs... then either there is problem with multi meter or plugs are indeed non-operational. If multi meter is reading correctly, then those glow plugs will not glow and engine will struggle to start i.e. it needs new set of plugs.

If glow plugs are new indeed and they failed already, then underlying cause would need to be addressed before new set is thrown into engine. If one is removing glow plugs, one should ream the seats of glow plugs with correct sized reamer and reamer guide. I would almost recommend to fishing out injectors and have them tested/serviced at the same time. I mean by the time you get to the point of taking out glow plugs you have done 80% work already. Removing injectors is going to add 15-20 min to the whole project and few dollars for injector seats and heat shields.

Above might be worthy to advanced level DIY... otherwise it would be better to take to reliable diesel mechanic.

In Japan 1 OEM Toyota glow plug was around $70, OEM Toyota injector around $80...

My understanding is that on 1KZ-TE glow plugs could be heated for up to 2min after engine has started, but I would not insist that I am correct. The time is depending on temperature.

thats been my point the entire time - i think i got bad ones.  Im changing them out tommorrow..... again.[/quote]

You might want to diagnose things correctly before turning on parts cannon. If you had 4 new plugs installed not long and they are all bad now... got to ask your self why...

imants wrote:

thats been my point the entire time - i think i got bad ones.  Im changing them out tommorrow..... again.

You might want to diagnose things correctly before turning on parts cannon.  If you had 4 new plugs installed not long and they are all bad now... got to ask your self why...

[/quote]

Yeah, im not sure.  most mechanics here wont even look at the vans in usa if you live outside portland / seattle area and sadly im doing a 2200 mile cross country in 4 days time so i dont have a tonne of options right now.

They didnt turn bad - werent ok from day one but they were done in south FL where it was hot weather so car started fine.  Soon as drive for one day to a chillier climate the issues started.

Or the mechanic who changed them out in FL lied and hid an issue they knew id not see til i was far far away.

I had a similar starting problem, started ok when warm but needed many tries when the engine was cold or parked overnight. Went through similar checks as you have and finally fixed my problem by replacing the fuel hoses leading into the fuel filter and from the filter to the fuel pump and tightening these firmly with screw ratchet ring clips. I suspect (I'm not a mechanic ) in my case it was air or fuel leaking and depressurizing the fuel pump. Anyway this was what worked for me.

wink wrote:

I had a similar starting problem, started ok when warm but needed many tries when the engine was cold or parked overnight. Went through similar checks as you have and finally fixed my problem by replacing the fuel hoses leading into the fuel filter and from the filter to the fuel pump and tightening these firmly with screw ratchet ring clips. I suspect (I'm not a mechanic ) in my case it was air or fuel leaking and depressurizing the fuel pump. Anyway this was what worked for me.

Ill 100% also get that checked tommorrow.  i think the dealer changed the fuel pump and not the mechanic so maybe.....

Hi,
Just saw your post and am excited to see that you are in Portland, as I am too. I have a 1KZ-te swapped Tacoma and it is running well. I have been all through it in many ways and am happy to chat about it. I have a hard copy of the manual and lots of other resources and various parts. It is always easier to compare to a working vehicle in my experience and you are more than welcome to. Reach out to me if you are interested and we can meet up.

kelt2 wrote:

wink wrote:

I had a similar starting problem, started ok when warm but needed many tries when the engine was cold or parked overnight. Went through similar checks as you have and finally fixed my problem by replacing the fuel hoses leading into the fuel filter and from the filter to the fuel pump and tightening these firmly with screw ratchet ring clips. I suspect (I'm not a mechanic ) in my case it was air or fuel leaking and depressurizing the fuel pump. Anyway this was what worked for me.

Ill 100% also get that checked tommorrow.  i think the dealer changed the fuel pump and not the mechanic so maybe.....

kelt2 wrote:

Ive had hiace super customs for 11yrs now - in australia and now usa.  I recently upgraded my 93 2wd gasser to a 95 4wd diesel.
Had the timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, thermostat, glow plugs, fuel oil and air filters changed, full oil change, and new AT tires.

Flew to pick the van up, drove 8hrs forst day..... next morning wouldnt start.  Took 10 min and 6-8 tries before i got it to go - then a cloud of smoke from the diesel deposited in the exhaust system.

Same thing next day and the one after til i finally got home  (18hrs drive altogether).  I never got to cold start the vehicle at pick up as it had been taken for the tire install that morning.

Van drives smooth, idles at 700-800rpm.

Yesterday i changed the battery from the exsisting 720cca to a 850cca as the crank was slow to nothing now hoping that would solve the problem.

Glow plugs are getting power - tested all yesterday and they read 12.4v each and 1.2-1.8 ohms.

Glow plug light on dash goes out in less than 0.5 sec when i put key in, but i think i hear the relay turn off several seconds after that (little click).

Ive never had a diesel before, and my mechanical knowledge is somewhat limited in regards to confidently pulling things apart myself.

I went looking for the g.p relay yesterday which i know is somewhere behind the glove compartment but i couldnt locate it.   But could it even be this if the plugs are getting power?

Help a diesel newbie!  I dont want to be attempting to start this multiple times every time i need to use it incase im damaging something

Hi, did you find the cold start problem ?