Alternator adjustment

Hi,

Spent today removing the aux (PS, AC and Alternator/fan) belts. Everything is pretty seized up, I ended up removing the fan to give better access. My nice dry engine is now coated in plusgas

As I understand it, the alternator/fan belts are tensioned using the worm drive, adjusted through the curtain in the wheel arch.

I have wound out this screw, plus loosened the bolt on the bit it screws in to (12 new swearwords invented), but the alternator refuses to move. Is there anything else I need to undo?

Hammer it?  

Sorry, I feel bad, you've been so helpful with my problems!  All I can do to help is post some pictures of my alternator and vacuum pump after they were removed because the van was literally pissing oil everywhere.  the alternator mechanically drives the pump on mine, so perhaps there's something on the pump you need to detach, or perhaps actually detach the pump as well because it might attach from the other side of the pump?




If you need any image bigger, right click on it, open in a new tab, and then you'll be able to click on the image to zoom to 100% on the new tab.

Don't worry, I have tried "percussive maintenance" on it (Length of wood through the skirt, wedged against the top of the alternator, then smacked with the big hammer)

How did you get access to the lower bolt to remove the alternator? I think I might need to back this off slightly, but I can't see it.

I'll be honest I didn't remove it myself. The thing broke down when I was travelling between countries and I had to get an emergency tow to the nearest Toyota dealer. Who incidentally were shit, and charged me 1000 euros than they should have because they messed up and refused to admit it. I don't know what they're like in UK, but in Spain they're useless thieves, every single dealer I've dealt with!

But to tension the belt you don't have to remove it I think? Defenitly not seperate it from the vacuum pump.

I have to look how it is for these 2L and 3L engines, but normally you have a bracket with a bolt on it on the top of alternator. This allows you to slide it as far out as you need to tension the belt, and fix it again.
But to be able to move it, there is usually also a bolt or nut on the bottom of the alternator which you need to loosen otherwise you can't move it.

Thanks, that is what I was thinking. My VW has a system where one bolt acts as a tensioner (via a rack and pinion) and the other bolt acts as a hinge. I was hoping this had a similar system, especially since there is poor access to the lower bolt.

btw, I've read about an access panel under the driver's seat. I removed the seat and pulled the carpet up a little but can't see an obvious hatch. There is one further back (almost behind the seat), is that what people are talking about?

TwentyOneThirtyFive wrote:

Thanks, that is what I was thinking.  My VW has a system where one bolt acts as a tensioner (via a rack and pinion) and the other bolt acts as a hinge.  I was hoping this had a similar system, especially since there is poor access to the lower bolt.

First remove the panel (see below) and then you are going to see the system probably. Could be a long thread like you describe, it could be a small "arm" kind of thing in which you can slide it.

Quote :

btw, I've read about an access panel under the driver's seat.  I removed the seat and pulled the carpet up a little but can't see an obvious hatch.  There is one further back (almost behind the seat), is that what people are talking about?

No, that one is a bit small (same size as battery hatch right?) and that leads to the airfilter compartment. (but the air filter you can pull out from below)

In front of that, if you remove the seat, there are around 8 to 10 bolts that let you remove a panel which is next to the engine hood.

This will allow you to work on alternator or exhaust manifold.

Now you can't really properly work on it.

Basically, if you follow the edge of the engine compartment "opening" (after opening the hood), you will find that it is not one piece, you will see two places where a new sheet of metal is starting. Near driver seat left front and left rear area. Then you can undo the cover material and see all the bolts.

Great info, thanks. Guess I need to pull a bit more carpet away.

I did the air filter from underneath. At least one job on this van was easy!

Yeah. If you ever get a bit of water in the intake (small river crossing) just drain the air filter but more importantly, that plastic box next to it. And you can just continue. It is made for that purpose.

I was looking at a snorkle like you have, but not for river crossings - when I get around to doing the breathers they will probably be around the same height as the current air intake.

My problem is aiming the pressure washer when I'm cleaning it!

Breathers for your equipment? or for ventilation for yourself?
If it is for equipment, for what kind of equipment you need the ventilation?

Why do you want the snorkel? For the looks?

I like the looks of the snorkel but rarely use the potential of it. However, I do have it so a small river crossing isn't an issue. But don't make yourself any illusions, after being a while in the water, the water will come through all the rubber seals eventually.

And please note that it will generate extra noise, which might make you decide to take it off again.

I think a friend of Hiace Hobo was selling cheaper copies, you can e-mail him. But you can also order it at a Toyota dealership. The number is on the forum somewhere, otherwise I can look it up for you.
But you have to make a bracket yourself.

Ha ha, no, I was saying I need a snorkle because I fill the air filter with water every time I wash the van I was aware of the Hobo one, didn't know there was a factory one.

I would like to go back to Iceland and visit some of the interior. This would require river crossings. As I understand it, the diff's and transfer box have one way breathers at the moment (the transfer box certainly had a vacuum when I removed the fill plug), so persumably need higher breathers to stop water getting sucked in. But I'm new to this and learning, so let me know if this isn't the case.

I certainly don't intend spending my life in rivers, too much additional servicing work is created! And I don't want wet carpets.

However, we're digressing and nothing will happen until I get this alternator moving, which is next weekend's task!

Starting to lose my sense of humour now...

Got the alternator freed up and moving.  Removed the AC tensioner to get better access from underneath.

Cannot get the new belts on.  As far as I can tell, they should be 1025x13.  I have these and slightly longer 1050x13 and must still be 2cm away from being able to get them onto the alternator pulley.  Cannot get anything under there to lever them on.  Alternator won't move any more, it's jammed right up against the vacuum hose.

Am I using the right size?  Any tricks or knacks I should know?  The Mrs has started mentioning things about calling a qualified mechanic

I'll see if things are improved if I try from above, but I'll need to remove the AC compressor.  I've removed the driver's seat and found the access panel, but do I need to do something  with the handbrake?  How is it disconnected?  I can't really tell from the diagrams I have.

I hope I can remember how all this goes back together!

Yeah sounds like the wrong size

What do you mean about the handbrake? I have a LHD and the handbrake is a pullout kind of thing that runs along the dasboard down to the pedals.

I understand yours is in the way?

Mine is RHD and has a conventional pull up handbrake by the driver's seat.  Looking at this diagram:

http://japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1994/hiace-regiusace/lh119v-rrpes/4_711140_106_/powertrain-chassis/4601_parking-brake-cable

It looks like I can unhook it once I remove the plastic cover.

I had a thought, can I remove the vacuum hose without causing any problems?  I was wondering if I can move that out of the way, I might get the additional movement I need an the alternator.

Checked the size of the new belts and they are comparable to the old ones, so I must just be missing something on the alternator adjustment.

Just found a note of a HiLux Surf forum about the wiring harness restricting movement (on a 2LTE, which I think has a similar block layout to the 3L). Looks like I do need to get in from the top.

1070 too long... suspect 1060 will go on, but not convinced I will get the right tension.  which means there is a problem moving the alternator.

No electrical cables stopping the alternator moving further, so it must be that hose.  just need to work out what is in that hose...hmm...seems it is the oil return.

What hose? If it's the back of alternator it is probably oil line of vacuum pump.

But can you see if you could move it further wothout hose? Is there more space on the adjustment system? If taking of the hose, it means you need a new longer hose. And it will spill oil, so check levels. And run the engine before you cover everything to check for leaks. But you probably thought of that.

You seem to have a regular handbrake, on mine it is totally different. Did you take of the cover or not?

progress, sort of.

The hose is the oil return line from the vac pump.  29300B on this diagram:

http://japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1994/hiace-regiusace/lh119v-rrpes/4_711140_106_/tool-engine-fuel/1905_vacuum-pump#29300B

I removed it out of the way and was able to move the alternator sufficiently to get the 1050 belts on easily

Unfortunately, I was not able to then get the hose back into position  Initially it was fouled by the exhaust manifold heatshield, so I removed that.  I then removed the AC compressor (not that you can move it much) to give me a bit more space to work.

I then ran out of time.

My new plan is to remove the belts, get the hose back into position but not attach it, then see if I can get the belts back on.  It makes no sense to me that this pipe should be fouling the alternator.

I never imagined these simple tasks would be so difficult.  Thought I'd have all this done in a couple of weekends There's every chance the Westy will get taxed so we have a usable van over Christmas.

So yes, managed to get hatch open under the driver's seat.  I just released the handbrake and it gave enough movement to slide the hatch out of the way without disconnecting anything.  Given it's had all oils, coolant and various other things done it will get a good test before the covers go back on.

I guess a regular handbrake would be in the middle of the "bonnet" on a LHD, hence the dash board solution.

I checked the parts and it should indeed be a belt of 1050mm long. So it seems you have the right belt.
What kind of hose is it? Even though it might be a hose with screw terminals (so no clamps) I think you can probably get it in larger lengths at the car parts store. I don't think it is that specific to the Hiace. Would it help if it was longer?

These kind of things can take long if you are a beginner, you tend to spend much more time than a mechanic. I also have that.

You are probably right on the handbrake, I wish I had a regular handbrake. Because the stick that I have now, I don't like it very much. But it works.

It's definately the oil return. It's a thinner pipe surrounded by a fatter pipe, guess to protect the oil pipe from the heat of the alternator/block.

I'm wondering if the pipe was originally out of position somehow, hence fouling the alternator movement. I just can't see why you should have to move this pipe to change the belts, it makes no sense to design something that way. As above I'll remove the belts and put the pipe back into position and see what happens.

On the plus side, I am getting to know the insides of the van very well. Trial by fire and all that!

Yeah

Working on other cars, including our Landcruiser which also had a vacuumpump on the alternator, I never had to mess around with the hoses.

Took the belts off, put the oil pipe back in position, but not connected (mistake!) and still couldn't get the belts back on.

Ended using a length of wood as a lever, effectively crushing the oil pipe, but I managed to get the belts back on in the end. Getting the oil pipe back on was interesting...

Hurrah! and a new world record for the longest attempt to change a belt

Van is actually back together and running now.

Hey I was wondering, could you perhaps take a picture of how the belts and pulleys are positioned? No hurry with it.
You pretty much have the same engine but with AC, so I would like to know the belt for the AC system is running. I can see it in the part system but I don't get all the locations. Also the number of pulleys on the crankshaft is a question.