Moonroof beeper/roof liner removal...

Hi all,

Been a super custom owner and lurker on this forum for almost a year now. Some great info here

I am wanting to disable the moonroof/sunroof open alarm, and also re-jig the relay to have constant active supply (so that it can be opened and closed independent of accessory power).

I have located the fabled 'blue box' up above the roof lining, which seems will need to be removed...

Can anyone give me some guidance as to how to remove the front section of lining? Any secret screws/clips etc

I am hesitant to start yanking at things as I know once it's broke finding a replacement won't be easy...

Cheers,
Gabe

Ok, so in my own true fashion I have dived in before awaiting an answer and have managed to get the blue box out without breaking anything...

The buzzer is soldered on to the circuitboard. I am about to remove it and replace the unit to see if there are any side effects.

Next to work out which is the supply wire to the unit get a constant 12v supply up to that thing...

I am taking a few photos along the way so if anyone is interested I would be happy to put together a bit of a guide...

Today I reached a successful outcome with this little project.

It turns out that the moonroof module already has a constant 12v supply (in order to operate the incessant buzzer).

This supply simply needs to be bridged across the back of the circuit to the pin which normally becomes active when accessory power is turned on, which can be determined with the use of a test light.

The supply cable to that particular pin then needs to be cut in order to prevent active supply going back down the bridged contact and powering up the main power relay, and thereby lighting up everything on your dash.

As I've only just signed up I can't post pictures, but I have taken a few photos of the process and will put up a guide, seeing as though I'm sure there are other owners who would like to know how this is done.

Cheers,
Gabe

i'd be keen to see pictures once u have them gabe, nice one

Now don't complain when you park up and some wild life make it their home!

One thing I find annoying is the moon roofs go through all the trouble of opening their shades, but wont put the bloody things back.
Has anyone successfully modified their moon roofs as to make the sliders shut again once the roofs are shut?
If not, that might be my next quest

Pics please   

Upon opening up the unit i see the buzzer has been removed and a track or maybe 2 are burnt away, i have bridged the obvious burnt track and tried the moonroof but still nothing happening, would the fact that the buzzer has gone effect the circuit, ie is it now incomplete, should i bridge the buzzer pins ?

Hey thanks heaps for this useful info Gabe! Being able to open the rear sunroof without the key in the ignition while sleeping in the back was the first improvement I wanted to make and your post was exactly what I needed to find

Like you I dived in and found that removing all the trim etc to drop the front section of the roof lining wasn't that tricky to work out. I did however take a few photo's of the "fabled blue box" and hope this will help anyone else tackling the same job.

Once the blue box was unplugged I used a multi meter to identify the constant voltage wire (used for the warning speaker on the board). I then turned the key on and retested to identify the accessory wire (which was the only other wire to now have a voltage as well). Then I cut the accessory wire and patched into the plug end of it from the constant voltage wire. Voila, job done!







Cheers
Ninjara

This is fantastic! So once you've located the blue box and disabled the constant voltage wire... how do you open and close the moon roof manually? Or can you? That's exactly what I need.. to be able to open it when I'm lying in bed in the back and not have the crazy alarm that sounds when you turn off the ignition letting you know that you've left a window open.

Great pics ninjara!

katelnd wrote:

This is fantastic! So once you've located the blue box and disabled the constant voltage wire... how do you open and close the moon roof manually? Or can you? That's exactly what I need.. to be able to open it when I'm lying in bed in the back and not have the crazy alarm that sounds when you turn off the ignition letting you know that you've left a window open.

IMO it's trickier than it sounds, because without the connector in your hand (to measure the voltages as you switch the ignition on and off etc) you don't know which tracks do what.

However the concept is simple: There is a permanent 12V in plus a switched 12V in.
The idea then is to cut the track to the switched 12V in, and then connect that track to the permanent 12V in.
The result is that the switched 12V connects to nothing, and the permanent 12V in connects to the switched and permanent bits of the circuit board.

Then remove the buzzer to stop that.

The roof can then be controlled by the roof mounted switches at any time.


BTW there is another buzzer in these vans, mounted at the front under the dash to the RHS, very difficult to access. It does the headlights on warning etc - and also the 'key in ignition' buzz. The only way to stop the 'key in ignition' buzz and keep the other two useful buzzes from this box is to take the shroud off of the steering column and unscrew the switch that detects the key is in the ignition. This is what I did and it's MUCH better.

PS.

If your roof actually works open it and give the cables a good clean and re-grease with some nice slippery stuff like AC50 or silicone grease.

Someone failed to do that to mine so it's now stuck - but the PCB and motor are fine as I've tested those.
So I'm currently in the process of removing the roof lining to access and unbolting the moon roof to take it apart and clean + regrease.

To do this first you need to remove the rear roof lining, then the front one, and then the assembly unbolts to be lowered inside. The benefit of this of course - as I keep telling myself - is that you can also service the rear sunroof and lay wires for the rear foglamp, reversing camera and any extra cabin lighting or speakers, and add some thinsulate/dacron insulation there for camping.

OK question and some updates!

My issue now is the motor stop switches. There are two, one seems to stop when it's half closed, then if you release and press forward again it stops again when fully closed: does anyone else's do this or have I got the motor out of sync with the controller?
Does your roof stop half way? Is this a feature?
Edit: I cleaned up and regreased the motor gearbox, checked the limit switches and re-synced it, and it just stops once now at the closed position and will not even try to go forward from there: I'm guessing this is now correct. Also a one-touch seems to lower it down nicely or back-up again, so it seems like it's behaving like it should now.

I have disabled the beeper and wires in the permanent live so the moonroof is active anytime the battery is on now: See next post.

Syncing is the art of re-inistalling the motor so its built in multi-turn switch is in the right place.

Sync of 'closed' is easy, with the motor disengaged one 'closes' it until it stops (1st or 2nd stop as per question above), close the roof and make sure the back is pushed up (the last 10-15mm of travel, a finger does it), and then pop the motor back in. This gets you to within 10-15mm of closed due I guess to cable springiness.

To get it to close that last 10-15mm you then need to park the roof half way (close slightly last to de-tension the motor), disengage the motor, slide the roof 10-15mm forward (clothes pegs are good references) carefully each side and then relocate the motor, so next time it stops the roof is fully closed. When fully closed the little lifts for the back roof brackets will be fully vertical.

When the motor is disengaged you should be able to manually push the roof forward from the front brackets without too much effort, even from half way to fully closed, and then lift the back by pushing the roof up a bit and pushing the cable there forward with a finger.
Additionally the roof is opened and closed from the rear brackets, the front brackets are merely along for the ride.

BTW if you want to remove the motor I recommend you get the roof open first (then close is slightly to de-tension the motor), as the 'awkward' 3rd bolt can only be got back in by standing up and sliding your right hand, palm up, in at the right angle with the bolt in your fingertips. 10mm ratchet spanner access only. To disengage the motor you only need the main two out or loose BTW, but if your motor needs to come out that 3rd bolt needs to come out too.

Note: You will need to remove the front roof lining to access this area first which is non trivial as really the rear roof lining wants to come out first.

Modifying the moon roof (moonroof) controller ECU in the Toyota Hiace Super Custom:

The top leg with the red blob on it can be snipped with a pair of wire cutters and bent away a little.
This isolates the switched live and thus stops our next mod from sending power back into all the other van accessories that are usually off.




Then the yellow connection is made with a small piece of bare wire and a soldering iron, this bit connects the 'always live' to the 'switched live' so the moon roof is always active. Once done check the other side to see if the leg you cut is still ok.

The red blob on there goes to the beeper, you need to cut the track there (ideally with a 2mm drill used sparingly or a careful knife, which will silence it for ever.


Note that these mods are quite reversible if you should change your mind at a later date.
Once modded the ECU is silent and you can casually sit in the back and play with the moon roof buttons without the ignition on.

GPW wrote:

Great pics ninjara!

katelnd wrote:

This is fantastic! So once you've located the blue box and disabled the constant voltage wire... how do you open and close the moon roof manually? Or can you? That's exactly what I need.. to be able to open it when I'm lying in bed in the back and not have the crazy alarm that sounds when you turn off the ignition letting you know that you've left a window open.

IMO it's trickier than it sounds, because without the connector in your hand (to measure the voltages as you switch the ignition on and off etc) you don't know which tracks do what.

However the concept is simple: There is a permanent 12V in plus a switched 12V in.
The idea then is to cut the track to the switched 12V in, and then connect that track to the permanent 12V in.
The result is that the switched 12V connects to nothing, and the permanent 12V in connects to the switched and permanent bits of the circuit board.

Then remove the buzzer to stop that.

The roof can then be controlled by the roof mounted switches at any time.


BTW there is another buzzer in these vans, mounted at the front under the dash to the RHS, very difficult to access. It does the headlights on warning etc - and also the 'key in ignition' buzz. The only way to stop the 'key in ignition' buzz and keep the other two useful buzzes from this box is to take the shroud off of the steering column and unscrew the switch that detects the key is in the ignition. This is what I did and it's MUCH better.

hey GPW, do you know which wire on the bottom of the ignition switch does the buzzer, if not what does the buzzer look like as I need it of as I'm wiring in that Subaru double din via ignition 1st click so I'll be leaving the keys in when parked up

mickB wrote:

hey GPW, do you know which wire on the bottom of the ignition switch does the buzzer, if not what does the buzzer look like as I need it of as I'm wiring in that Subaru double din via ignition 1st click so I'll be leaving the keys in when parked up

Hi Mick! I thought you may have run off with a VW?!

Depends which buzzer, there are about 4 IIRC. The moonroof just takes a generic live + switched live I think.
If you want the 'left your key in' buzzer disabled you need to remove the tiny 'left your key in' switch on the ignition barrel, Access to the 3-way lights on type buzzer is futile: just disconnect the switch at source.

There's also a buzzer behind the instrument cluster PCB for something that can be popped out.

GPW wrote:

mickB wrote:

hey GPW, do you know which wire on the bottom of the ignition switch does the buzzer, if not what does the buzzer look like as I need it of as I'm wiring in that Subaru double din via ignition 1st click so I'll be leaving the keys in when parked up

Hi Mick! I thought you may have run off with a VW?!

Depends which buzzer, there are about 4 IIRC. The moonroof just takes a generic live + switched live I think.
If you want the 'left your key in' buzzer disabled you need to remove the tiny 'left your key in' switch on the ignition barrel, Access to the 3-way lights on type buzzer is futile: just disconnect the switch at source.

There's also a buzzer behind the instrument cluster PCB for something that can be popped out.

Nah mate, very tempted with the t25 my mate had but sticking with the sc, I had another mate into jap stuff after vw life, he has an old school skyline, said my sc is way cooler than anything vw,
I only want to disable the key in buzzer for now, I see there is a small black box on upper part of the barrel but that doesn't gave any 12v to it when keys in and beeping, there's another 2 wire plug that I disconnected when beeping but still carried on so am I right thinking the wire is one at the base of the ignition switch, if so do you know the colour of it

mickB wrote:

GPW wrote:

mickB wrote:

hey GPW, do you know which wire on the bottom of the ignition switch does the buzzer, if not what does the buzzer look like as I need it of as I'm wiring in that Subaru double din via ignition 1st click so I'll be leaving the keys in when parked up

Hi Mick! I thought you may have run off with a VW?!

Depends which buzzer, there are about 4 IIRC. The moonroof just takes a generic live + switched live I think.
If you want the 'left your key in' buzzer disabled you need to remove the tiny 'left your key in' switch on the ignition barrel, Access to the 3-way lights on type buzzer is futile: just disconnect the switch at source.

There's also a buzzer behind the instrument cluster PCB for something that can be popped out.

Nah mate, very tempted with the t25 my mate had but sticking with the sc, I had another mate into jap stuff after vw life, he has an old school skyline, said my sc is way cooler than anything vw,
I only want to disable the key in buzzer for now, I see there is a small black box on upper part of the barrel but that doesn't gave any 12v to it when keys in and beeping, there's another 2 wire plug that I disconnected when beeping but still carried on so am I right thinking the wire is one at the base of the ignition switch, if so do you know the colour of it

Must admit the T25 can look pig ugly and the SC looks extremely cool .
The key beeper, ok, on the centre back (next to the instrument cluster) of the barrel there's two little screws holding a switch. Undo those screws.

GPW wrote:

mickB wrote:

GPW wrote:

mickB wrote:

hey GPW, do you know which wire on the bottom of the ignition switch does the buzzer, if not what does the buzzer look like as I need it of as I'm wiring in that Subaru double din via ignition 1st click so I'll be leaving the keys in when parked up

Hi Mick! I thought you may have run off with a VW?!

Depends which buzzer, there are about 4 IIRC. The moonroof just takes a generic live + switched live I think.
If you want the 'left your key in' buzzer disabled you need to remove the tiny 'left your key in' switch on the ignition barrel, Access to the 3-way lights on type buzzer is futile: just disconnect the switch at source.

There's also a buzzer behind the instrument cluster PCB for something that can be popped out.

Nah mate, very tempted with the t25 my mate had but sticking with the sc, I had another mate into jap stuff after vw life, he has an old school skyline, said my sc is way cooler than anything vw,
I only want to disable the key in buzzer for now, I see there is a small black box on upper part of the barrel but that doesn't gave any 12v to it when keys in and beeping, there's another 2 wire plug that I disconnected when beeping but still carried on so am I right thinking the wire is one at the base of the ignition switch, if so do you know the colour of it

Must admit the T25 can look pig ugly and the SC looks extremely cool .
The key beeper, ok, on the centre back (next to the instrument cluster) of the barrel there's two little screws holding a switch. Undo those screws.

Is it a small black box with 2 blue wires to it?

mickB wrote:

Is it a small black box with 2 blue wires to it?

No, green and white wires.
Luckily (for you) I haven't stuck my dash back together yet





Just unscrew it, tyrap is safely out the way, job done.
Photo with arrow is taken from directly above looking straight down.
The switch can be seen in the 2nd pic.

GPW wrote:

mickB wrote:

Is it a small black box with 2 blue wires to it?

No, green and white wires.
Luckily (for you) I haven't stuck my dash back together yet







Just unscrew it, tyrap is safely out the way, job done.
Photo with arrow is taken from directly above looking straight down.
The switch can be seen in the 2nd pic.

Thanks buddy

Ah, bliss, no beep beep beeping with key in ignition

Cheers gpw

Good isn't it

GPW wrote:

Note that these mods are quite reversible if you should change your mind at a later date.

I decided to reverse the 'always active' mod on this module after running a test to see what the battery drain was. There was about 175 - 250 mA unaccounted for, I changed the 47uF caps out too and that seemed to help a little but in the end I chose to fit a switch to the headlining (next to a LED voltmeter as an indicator) so I could select the Acc in wire between the Acc going into the plug and B+.

The wire colours are into the moonroof controller plug are:
Fat white with blue strip          = B+ always on (not sure which fuse this uses - possibly AM1).
Medium white with black strip = Ground
Thin Blue+Red wire                 = Acc+

So now in the back cabin I can select the moonroof, move it and then switch it off or back to Acc.
In the future I need to add a relay to the dash to switch Acc on remotely from the cabin because that would also give me the radio too, but that's a job for another month!