cruise control

Gidday , I am thinking of installing a cruise control to my 1995 SC ..have done searches on here and can't find any info ..has anyone installed an after market unit or are they unsuitable for our vans ..any info will be appreciated ..
cheers Tezza

Hi Tezza, I'm going down that same path. I asked my mechanic about the possibility and because my throttle is adjusted via a cable, he said it should be possible.

I'm debating whether it's easier to snaffle the one out of my 4runner or whether to just get someone to install a new one. Option one may be cheaper, but messy as I'm not confident of doing it myself while option two may be easier but more expensive. Will have to try and get a quote for a new one and then make a decision.

Will ley you know how I go.

Cheers,

Werner

Thanks Werner ..Look forward to seeing which way you decided on ..I'm looking around for one myself , provided it's not gold plated (like most things super custom )also looking into remote locking ..
cheers Tezza

Hi Tezza,
can't help you with the remote locking as my van came with alarm & immobiliser (operated from remote key)already fitted. I have my doubts about the immobiliser as when on the weekend my alarm went off, I was still able to start the engine. The alarm certainly works and I still have yet to find a quick way to switch it off so that the enighbours don't complain. Not sure why the alarm goes on in the first place unless I accidentally activate the system and then open the door unaware the system is activated...

Might do something about the cruise control on the weekend as I also want to see if I can swap my UHF & normal radio from the 4runner.

Cheers,

Werner

Hi ya all.

I installed an aftermarket cruise control kit found it from ebay a year ago, I have a 1998 s/c 4wd AT, that was not too bad, took me about 3hours.

if you have a chance to come down to Sydney, I will be happy to show you how I did.

Here is the current listing in ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cruise-Control-Kit-AP150-Universal-Fit-Aftermarket-DIY-/261058428219?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc84b7d3b

cheers

Mas

Hi Mas,

I reckon I installed an AP150 on a Subaru wagon many years ago and it functioned for a while. I had something fixed on it just before an 8.5 week trip up north and the stupid thing failed on the second day, so most of the 20800km was driven by foot instead of cruise control.

I have had 2 installers take a look at the SC van.

The first quoted $1200 and said that the labour costs would be the killer.

The second one was a bit hesitant as there isn't much room in the engine bay to locate the servo(?) (black box). That was my reason for taking the seat out to have a look. The only place I could see to mount the servo was in the back corner next to the air intake under the driver's seat. I have emailed him the photos of what the engine bay under the driver's seat looks like, but as yet haven't heard back from him. I'll have to ring him.

Where did you mount the actuator and where did you tap into the vacuum line? (photos would be good!)

I had a look at the ebay link and the wiring diagram, looks a bit too complicated for me to install I think. Unfortunately, I'm not due to go to Sydney anytime soon, hence the request for pics. I'm sure Tezza would be interested as well.

Also, with some pics, I would have some info to go back to the installer with.

When I installed the AP150 on the Subaru, it was relatively straightforward as I had a lot more room to work with.

Cheers,

Werner

Just want to confirm Mas, do you have the 1KZ-TE 3.0L turbo diesel motor?

G'day mate.

Yes, I'm talking about kzh106 1kz-te motor.

$1200 for installation labour, clearly these installers have got no idea what we have here.

The servo can easily fit in the space next to the air intake under the driver's seat. the actuator can be attached to the space next to the air cleaner box.

the vacuum line can be snached from the hose near the end of head, there is a vacuum pump driven by the drive belt, so simply you can follow the vacuum line from the pump. if your mechanic could not tell you where the vacuum line from the top of the engine then I wouldn't risk with them.

The speedo signal, you can pick it up from the back of speed cruster.
there is the link, look in the page 11 connection C. if your hiace is S/C limited the chances are you've got digital cruster, so different connection, the link below ONLY for the anolog look cruster with digital ODO.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:HSsF40Xi9_4J:hide945r.sakura.ne.jp/volvo/navi/pana/toy/haiesuO.pdf+kzh106+speed+signal&hl=ja&gl=au&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESjPOH1LFAc-MeYMeaDikXn55BQOp13NuwiCFDUOAyrrpniiXYVmyat-wQbDdsSRsgFBYUHb-KrKKJGOqN-rQZB3SqkZUcvq1-KGhPaJzczGkTfH_PIH2mR4gMq4emTf78H8W_Wo&sig=AHIEtbR2Ee0cAbOrNy_OztTztcYeOm1O4A

I tried to attach pictures, but somehow it did not work, so let me know your email, I can send pics there.

Dont give up the project it is well worth it, the vehicle like this gotta have cruise control, actually one of the first mod since I bought my S/C.

Good luck

Mas

Hi Mas,

thanks for the info, it's really useful. I just checked my info from the toyoDIY site and my van is a KZH106W-MFPQT and appears to be a SC limited type so I don't know if the info on page 1 (1994) is going to be relevant. I do have a digital ODO but couldn't tell you anything about the speed cruster.

Pics can be sent to w_kutsche@yahoo.com.au

Don't worry, I'm not giving up on getting a cruise control yet, as it was the first mod done on my 4runner when I bought that 11 years ago and my RH foot hasn't regretted it one bit !!

I spoke to the installer yesterday and he said that it probably would be half a day labour and that they charge fairly. He criticised the fact that some people charge over $1000. He also said that they would need to put speed sensors on the drive shafts rather than looking for a wire which carries the speed signal. Maybe that's a requirement for the system they are going to install. I'll pass on the info you have given me.

Looking forward to seeing the pics.

Cheers,

Werner

Hi, Werner

Before I start I have to give some info for this 100series Hiace.
Mark 1, from Aug 1989 to Oct 1990
Engine 3L 2.8l diesel non turbo
Part time 4wd
Mark 2, from Nov 1990 to Jul 1993
Engine 2L-te 2.4l diesel turbo
Part time 4wd
Mark3, from Aug 1993 to Jul 1996
Engine 1KZ-TE
Full time 4wd
Mark 4, from Aug 1996 to Jun 1999 (most powerfull diesel in 100series hiace)
Engine 1KZ-TE
Full time 4wd
Mark 5, from Jul 1999 to 2003(rare but thirsty due to Japanese ex-gas emission control)
Engine 1KZ-TE intercooled
Full time 4wd

Apparently, Some of the mark 4 may have been recalled by Toyota to modify ECU mapping due to clear the ex-gas emission control at the time, no good at all it will be thirsty and lack of power.

In the picture yours looks like mark3, the good news is after mark3 to mark5 share lot of parts includes speed cruster, but only S/C limited has digital cruster which does not have any old fashion needle gauges, all the informations are displayed by “futurelistic” green LED display. I found another page for “digital cruster”. I’m pretty sure the link below gives you where the speed signal is in your digital cruster. You can check it out by remove your cruster and see compare the connections are same as picture. There are obvious conncter differences from “needle cruster” and “digital cruster”.

http://hide945r.sakura.ne.jp/volvo/navi/pana/toy/haiesuN.pdf
If you can, could you upload my pics for everybody to see?

Thanks
Mas

Hi Mas,

yes, I agree, mine would be the Mark 3. All dashboard info is displayed as LED symbols, no needles of any sort.

I had a look at the link you gave above, but it says it's for 08/1998 onwards. My van is an 06/1994.

Yesterday, I located the ECU, between the passenger door & sliding door. It appears from the picture given in the link above, that the ECU is behind the dashboard which might be the case in your vehicle.

I wasn't game enough to pull any of the connectors out, but I had a look at the general appearance of the connectors and they appeared to match that on page 1 of the first link you gave me. However, I think you mentioned that was for an analog type speed cluster, so now I'm not sure. If that was the speed cluster in my vehicle, then I think the speed info wire is a black & yellow one.

I'll see what I can do re uploading your pics. Any pics I have uploaded to date I have uploaded via the Gallery site on this forum, quite easy to do. The more difficult part is getting the link right in the text part of the posting so that it is easy for everyone to see.

Cheers,

Werner

Update on my cruise control venture :

I had spoken to the installer again, but the advice he got from the suppliers of the unit he would install was not to go ahead with it.

He did put me onto a mate of his who is very knowledgable when it comes to these sort of things. I spoke to his mate and he said it should be relatively easy to do. He had installed a number of the particular unit he was considering putting on my van and his customers hadn't had any problems with theirs.

The price was almost half than what another mob wanted, so all going well, this Wed I should have the cruise control issue sorted out.

The cruise control has now been fitted

The unit is an Autron AC5CCVac. When the cruise isn't switched on, it can also be set as a speed warning device.

I took the van for a drive to Mannum & back on Saturday to test out the cruise control. It seems to hold the speed well. I'm not sure what effect it will have on overall fuel consumption as when the speed drops by even a couple of km/h e.g. on even a small hill, it quickly accelerates to get back to the set speed. Probably ideal in flat conditions e.g the Nullabor Plain, haha

Time will tell, I'll have a better idea once I have done a longer trip, next camping trip on Aug 11

I'm racing to get my adjustable table set up in the van in time for that camping trip, should be finished by next weekend, all going well.

Cheers,

Werner

The guy who installed my remote for my central locking along with my reversing camera etc when asked about installing a cruise for me said he wouldnt do it because he has seen a few after market cruises just not perform safely ..when I think back , in 1984 i had a new mq patrol and had an aftermarket cruise installed which went haywire and refused to turn off ..I was doing 100kph at the time and had to resort to turning key off which in turn turned steering lock on ..bloody scary i can tell you ..so i reckon my right foot be the safest cruise control for me ..lol..
cheers Tezza

I have just completed installing a Rostra Cruise Control unit to my 1995 Hiace. to be honest it was easier than installing my radio. took me about 3 hours tops and was very simple. I have taken photos of how and where that I happily share. its working absolutely perfect from my install with no further adjustment needed.
first I installed the black box unit down in between the control to left of my left rest pedal (RH drive car) bolted unit via bracket and two bolds to a galv frame under there. I removed the two clip on side covers to each foot well then four side screws and pulled up the small section of console that is around the auto gear knob and drinks holders.. this gives you great access for the unit, all the wiring and also access to drill bulkhead using a cordless drill. i ran mine tight just to the side of the gear selector as the plastic cover comes in close.
drilled small hole to bulk head 8mm above radiator fan for cable to get into engine bay and cable tied it to sound proofing to keep it away from fan.
then installed the cable end just above the throttle linkage, via a bracket supplied. I used the original cable and nut to secure the bracket in place. then had to add a loop to cable to the add extra length for rostra 41 mm travel required. this loop passes over the bobble on end of throttle cable.
both cables then ride in same cam shoe of the throttle linkage. that's the mechanical bit done.

secondly its all the wiring.
first I bolted the earth to a common earth in passenger footwell/console area where there is a sub fuse board. un-tightened 10 mm bold and added my ring connector to two other originals.
then two connections to the brake switch, one to 12v permanent positive(hot side) which is a green/with red tracer.
then other wire from rostra to cold side.
then VSS wire for pulse rate. My van has a futuristic electronic dash readout and the( vehicle speed sensor) VSS is best connected to feed to the ECU(engine control unit) unit which is located on passenger door post under seat belt. recline front passenger seat forward and then from rear sliding door remove screw holding engine cover retaining strap. Part of the side door seal and lower push in plug also hold this cover so remove these and pull cover off. On my ECU I have three plugs a 26, 16 and a 12 pin plug. the VSS connection is on the 12 pin plug and is the second connection in from the side if plug that mates up to the middle plug and on the lower row, the upper row being the plug clip side. the wire is coloured purple with a white tracer- I connected my rostra wire to this via one of them plastic splice clips, the wrapped back in black wire harness cover , then replaced all covers and trims etc.
I also had to make one connection to a 10 amp fuse which I used the indicator feed that is only live when ignition on, as required.
I also have not connected the tach wire yet as im not sure where it goes and it will work without it. That's all the wiring done except for the control new stalk.
for this I removed the 6 screws and removed the covers from around the steering wheel. undo the two cover plates either side of the steering wheel and loosen the two screws behind. remove the horn fuse. and pull off the horn cover. undo the 19mm nut holding the steering wheel on,and remember wheel position before pulling wheel off, then undo the four screws holding the black stalk assembly on and pull off over the steering wheel shaft. you should then be left with a tin plate showing. I bolted my new stalk to the back of this using one bolt. I then had to cut a slot in the cover to allow for it to pass over stalk. then re-assemble, plug stalk plug into CC harness and that was it all complete. After setting all the Rostra micro switches as per the setting required, I then ran through the Rostra self diagnostic test which it all passed and then took out on a test drive which proved perfect.
the Hiace's use a 4 pulse/mile setting with a square sine wave pattern.
I have tested the unit now on road and its very responsive and holds speed to within 2km. which I find great. cant wait to use it towing where I need to keep 10 km under normal limit. I have some pictures and can take more if required. hope this helps ..cheers Paul

Hey Paul. I know this thread is years old but any chance you have those old pics? I didn’t see anything posted here but maybe I missed it. Appreciate it if you’ve got it. Getting ready to do this to my 96.

Have cruise fitted to my SC auto no problems for 4years .
Command Vacuum Actuator Universal Cruise Control Easy Install Kit (90AP60B)

See also this thread for pics!

https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/t2938-cruise-control?

Key for me was to make a little lever/ bracket for the throttle pull so the cruise could pull the throttle safely without interfering or derailing the main throttle. Spend a little time here.

Also while you are there you can disconnect the two EGR vacuum hoses and connect them together with a little tube, EGRs are a pet hate of mine LOL, as they clog up the intake manifold with gunk.

Adblue was a so much better invention!

Got rid of my EGR last year had done about 118k , removed the intake for cleaning and removed gunge from inlets with a tea spoon before cleaning with carb cleaner and air line messy job . Also fitted a catch can on the crank case ventilation system just to be sure whilst the SC was of the road last winter replacing the driver side lower cill for MOT and spraying bottom half dark burgundy. DIYed it myself as our local body shop quoted £5,000 and I had nothing to due to covid .

I thought I would add my experience installing CC as this thread was super useful.

CC Unit: Rostra 250-1223
CC Controller: Rostra 250-3742 (LHS)
Van: 94 KZH106 (Super Custom Limited)

Ill note ahead of time that I am a novice when it comes to working on vehicles. It took me 30 minutes to realize which of the two cables was actually the throttle cable for instance. I also hem and haw over every little detail, so this took me the better part of 6 hours I'm guessing, plus a lot of second guessing and looking for more advice/watching generic YT videos about this install. In the end it all worked out and I am happy I did it.

My first step was finding a spot for the cable that will be pulling on the throttle cable. The bracket that you get in the kit is pretty big, I ended up cutting it down to maybe 30% it's original size using a Dremel. I cut a slot in the bottom so I could slide it down between the two nuts that are attached to the throttle cable. For reference, the cable with the zip tie on it is the throttle cable, the shiny new bracket is the Rostra bracket. I tried mounting it in a couple other spots, but in those orientations it would pull the cable to the side. I did not like that and worried that the throttle spindle would get caught up on the Rostra cable, not sure if that would have happened, but this is what I ended up with.


Here is a picture of the full linkage. Note that I used the little "loop adaptor" or whatever it is called which buddies up with the end of the throttle cable (its a much smaller cable that runs parallel with the throttle cable). Note in this picture I have not pressed the bead chain clips or put the black wraps over them which I did later.


Following the cable, it is just tucked up above the alternator area and I drilled a hole to the left of my shifter, right of the passenger seat latch to bring it into the cabin.


I ended up mounting the box that is the magic end of the CC unit under the cup holders. This required removing the two side panels (they just pop out), then 4 screws and the cup holders plus most of that assembly pops out. You can hit the red button on your shifter and drop your vehicle into neutral (your parking brake is on, right?) in order to get the assembly out past your shifter. Mounting that box is kind of a pain, and there is not very much room anywhere. The mounting bracket (black bracket with 025 printed on it) from Rostra is flat, I bent this thing to make it a 90deg. I drilled it with supplied screws into the metal body there, it sort of sits above another piece of metal, so there is a gap in between where the screws dig into, so I had no worries that I would screw into something vital. I had to mount the thing at that 45 degree angle. I think that is OK, you just cant mount it downwards for whatever reason. There is not much room down here, was barley able to fit my drill and put in a small pilot hole. I had to get one of those curving bits to put the screw in with my impact drill. If you are in the US, harbor freight had a pretty affordable one that worked well for me.


Moving on I then put in my controller. I decided to just mount it to the upper plastic shell that protects the steering column. There is not a lot of clearance between the inside of the plastic cover and the inner workings of the steering column, so you have limited options. Also make sure you check the full up and down pitch position on your steering wheel, and consider what your knees do when you get in and out (im a tall guy, so I was afraid to put it low). This position turns out to not be that great, from my viewpoint when driving, it is completely obscured by the wiper control, however there are only 2 important buttons on the controller, so I should be able to control it without looking at it before long. Ran all the wires down where all the other wires of the steering column go.


On to the wiring, for the brake hot and cold, I ended up using my multimeter to check for 12v power when the pedal was not engaged (hot side), and 12v only when the pedal is engaged (cold side). In the picture below, the actual plug and wires are missing, but they would be in the brown plug. To test, I put my black terminal to a common ground (there is one under the cup holder about 4" from the CC unit), and the other I had to use a paper clip extension to get at the back of the plug while it was plugged in. The colors of wires that I got where different than what was mentioned in this thread, which was the only real deviation I noticed.


Still looking at the brakes, here is another picture of the splices I used (included in the kit!), red for hot, blue for cold.
Hot wire: Red with white stripe
Cold wire: Green with white stripe
The solid red and solid velvet wires are from the CC unit, tucked around behind as much stuff as possible (I did some cleaning up in the end).


The last picture I have for this install was the VSS. I accessed it as described in this thread, the panel between the passenger door sliding side door. Others have said that they tap into the VSS near the dash, but I didn't really want to go digging up into those guts, and the lead that you have on the CC unit for the VSS was really long, so I just ran it all the way to the ECU. I found the purple with white stripe wire exactly where it was described in this thread, on the 12 pin connection, second row (facing away from the clip), second wire. To my surprise, there was a splice on that wire already with some electrical tape. It went to some sort of small inline circuit but the wire was cut and abandoned. At first I was going to use this fortuitous connection point, but upon inspecting the splice, I found what you see in the picture below just wrapped in e-tape. Either way, I used another one of those fancy splices like for the brakes and and spent a minute taping the VSS wire (from the CC unit) down to the base of the van, running under the passenger seat, careful to not be in a spot where it would get pinched. I also took this opportunity to open up my ECU and look for any signs of leaking capacitors, everything looked good to my untrained eye!


The only other parts of the install, no pictures, would be the 12V power. I used one of those fuse splicers, where it turns one fuse slot into two fuse slots. I ran it off the fuse for the built in cooler (which I don't have), but it has the 12V only when key is set to ON.

The tach wire I grounded along with the common ground for the Rostra unit to that spot I referenced 4" away from the control unit. You'll see it once you open those hatches up and take a look.

Buttoned everything up and did the initial tests. I was a doofus and didn't realize I was using an "open circuit" controller, so I had pin 12 on the CC unit set wrong. All the other pins on the CC unit where in the right spot, I currently have no need to adjust them, but I can access them with a long flathead by just removing the passenger footwell wall that leads to under the cup holders. Once I set the dip switch correctly I ran through the 4 tests, all passed. I took her for a drive and it worked great. I would say relative to my Subaru's cruise control, it takes a little while for the CC to fully set to a speed, but once it gets there, the accel and decel work great. Tapping accel only adds about 1km/h, so it adds speed pretty slow, but you can hold down the accel button and move up to speed fast. Decel worked much the same way. The brake switch is very responsive, just a small tap on the brakes (not even really feeling the effect of the brake) and you can hear the unit disengage. Was able to hold speed pretty dead on (+/- 1kmph) on the freeway, but I didn't hit any major hills, ill be curious how this deals with going over a mountain.

Not much else to say, it works well, Rostra has really good instructions on how to install, they give you a lot of different little things to install the unit with, so its sort of a "choose you own adventure".

As a side benefit to this whole project, when I opened up the area under my cup holders, I discovered a mysterious aftermarket box obviously from Japan. Turns out it is a turbo timer which essentially is a timer on your ignition to keep the engine running for X amount of time after you turn the key off. The concept is that you can turn the key off, put on your club, lock your doors, and walk away while the van is still running the cooling system and it will turn off when the turbo timer hits time. All I had to do was edit some dip switches to set a time (thanks to google translate which translated a picture of the module and what all the switches do). The thing works, which is cool, though im not sure I am sold on it. I think it may be contributing to whatever is draining my battery over long periods of not using the van, so it may be wisest to remove.

Thank you for the post on this. I’ve been considering adding this to my SC in the future.

Hello egecko and thanks for your recent post on this thread as this had passed me by and I’m also very grateful to TheBeninator for your hugely detailed post. Thanks also to others on here. This is a very helpful thread!