Transmission Fluid/filter/gasket HELP please someone reply!

Hey,

My transmission pan is leaking.. so I’m told.. made what I’m thinking was a silly move and was told it’s easy, I can do it myself so here I am doing it myself and getting in over my head.
Firstly the gasket was the wrong size that is indicated for my hiace. So I took it back with the pan to show the very obvious size difference.
I have a 1999 series RZH113R .
What ended up fitting the pan is the typica ready hiace KDH201R.

However the original filter is shorter and flatter but exactly the same shape and bolts Al match up so we came to the conclusion that the transmission has been changed at some point.

Get it home get it all installed go to put the pan back on and it’s not deep enough for the new filter. Totally didn’t factor that in. All good, well not so much all good but spoke to a mechanically minded mate who said just give the old filter a really good clean and use that. Thing is the cork seals on that have perished so I’m hoping I can transfer the from the new filter but I’m yet to try that. They seem glued in place so I’m waiting till I’ve exhausted my options.

However now I’m freaking out as I can’t find any information regard what fluid it had in it. Do I use what’s recommended for my van in its original state OR do I use what’s recommended for the model of hiace that my transmission seems to match?

Please someone reply. I don’t want to kill my van and I can’t afford to stuff the gearbox because I put the wrong fluid in.

What came out is broowwwwnn dirty as. Not black/burnt but yeah.

Hi!

Ok, so the old filter is probably a metal gauze, just back flush it to clean. I'm not a fan of filter changes TBH, can't see the point.

Cork and glue - well, it's just cork and glue, for glue use any decent gasket/glue suitable for engine fluids and temperatures. Cork - any model railway shop, floor tile shops etc, for the right thickness. A very sharp knife and a cutting mat.

Fluids: the ATF type will be written on the dipstick "DII" is expected, so any Dexron II or III is fine.
But check!! Also in the engine bay, there are plates with it, or look up the gearbox model and research. But in general, I would expect DII.

Dirty oil. Ok. read carefully!! New dextron is a very very good cleaner.
This means, in the first few miles, a LOT more black will appear.
Your sump is only a partial change (3L or so), as the Torque Converter is not usually easy to empty.

So you need to use this change regime:

New DIII -> Drive 10 miles (or less, this is the BIG clean)
New DIII -> Drive 20 miles
New DIII -> Drive 50 miles
New DIII -> Drive 100 miles

Then you will notice that the old fluid coming out is a nice pink colour. When this happens, you can relax but do another change after 500 miles.

If you just change dirt autobox oil once, the dirt that's carefully stuck to every surface of the box gets cleaned off and starts blocking up small oil passages that you really don't want to be blocked.

That's why changing dirt oil is usually a big gamble. But if you follow the above regime, the dirt leaves the box in good time, so it cannot do harm.

Enjoy, and find a good cheap bulk source of ATF DIII and some new squish washers!
And a decent funnel to fill it via the dipstick tube.

Remember to check the level when running, so you need it about right. get into the habit of measuring what comes out and stick the same amount back in, and then just check when running.

I did this regime on mine and it's been fine

Thank you
So I’ve managed to find the right filter and gasket set and have ordered that. So feeling back to confident but sheesh. There is nothing on the dipstick, I checked all over it and can’t find anything but did figure out the transmission is a 30-40LE and yep, the DII or DIII .
Squish washer?

I wish I left it alone but all a learning curve I guess.

efjay_167 wrote:

Squish washer?

I wish I left it alone but all a learning curve I guess.

Squish! The copper washer that seals the autobox sump plug!
Buy nice thick copper ones of the correct size, and to reused you can heat them to red-hot, most will do 2-4 times.

Best to catch and change dirty ATF oil as it isn't good. As long as you flush until it comes out the correct colour, you'll have a better box (and more economy too, as new oil is better).

Just checking, so the correct filter is arriving today. The oil
I had come out is only about 2 ltr. Should I still only put 2 ltr back or 3? 3 seems to be the common amount.

efjay_167 wrote:

Just checking, so the correct filter is arriving today. The oil
I had come out is only about 2 ltr. Should I still only put 2 ltr back or 3? 3 seems to be the common amount.

Put the same amount you got out, back in, but as soon as you can, check the level (done while idling).
Then adjust as necessary.

One more question, well 2 I guess.

Photos, that bolt/arm I’m pointing at, the bolt between the arm and the transmission was loose and clearly has transmission fluid around it. This was probably my problem all along, anyway … I’d it meant to be loose lol? I tightened it ever so slightly but seems it appears to be attached to a moving arm, didn’t want to cause any restrictions.

2nd, I can’t bloody tell on the dipstick. I’ve put back how much came out, 3lt, as when I came back to it there was another litre in the pan seems it’s been sitting since last week. But it seems to just smear the whole stick 🥴

Photo?

The dipstick tube is very long, you'll probably have to let it drain for a while into the sumb, then put a dry dipstick in: also the new stuff is cleaner so it's more difficult to see LOL.

If it was leaking it’s a fair expectation that what comes out isn’t enough for refill.
When checking levels, do it either cold or hot. ATF expands a LOT when hot, hence the different markings on the dipstick. Check level with the engine running, in neutral, after running through and pausing in all the gears. This distributes fluid thoughout the valve body & channels to give the correct sump level.
There’s no real need to get all the fluid out and changed in one session, replacing any amount will get it functioning better. The only recommendation from experience is not to use a synthetic fluid, stick to Dexron III.