Removing a Radiator from 1995 Hiace Custom 1KZ-TE, KZH106G

This model has the ¾ passenger seat with the fold down seat back. You know the one with the sad excuse for cup holders that you keep knocking over with your elbow!

1.Lift the engine cover (passenger seat) and secure in the normal fashion using the black strap located by the passenger seat belt.
2.We need to gain access to the driver side engine cover. Using a Philips screwdriver remove the driver side wheel arch trim. On mine there are three screws, and then you need to push the trim forward to unclip it from the two locking tabs. DO NOT try and pry it directly upwards as you risk breaking these tabs.
3.Remove the driver seat. Remove the 5 x M10 bolts holding down the seat. Three of these have rubber caps on them which you may have to pry off with a screwdriver. Remove the seatbelt warning light connector which you access by sliding the seat forward. This consists of a secure latch as well as the actual electrical connector. Use a screwdriver to GENTLY slide under the secure latch to remove it. Use the same technique for the electrical connector. You can now lift the seat out of the van. The carpet can now be pulled clear although you may have to remove the hand-brake cover if the carpet is trapped under it. This is held by two screws; simply slide it off the hand-brake.
4.Remove the driver engine cover. Unbolt the 7 off M10 bolts holding down the cover. Move this off to the side so you have clear access for the radiator to come out. You should not need to remove the hand-brake cable unless you want to remove the cover from the van.
5.Drain coolant from radiator and engine block. Use the drain cock on the bottom left of the radiator and the engine drain plug on the oil cooler. (Or use what ever method suits!)
6.Remove top radiator, return and reservoir hoses. Remove the two bolts holding down the power steering reservoir and move this off to the side to allow you access to remove the radiator reservoir. Undo the 1xM6 bolt which holds the reservoir in place. The bottom of the reservoir has a support spigot which locates in the fan shroud boss. Simply lift the reservoir out to remove it.
7.Remove viscous fan and shroud. The shroud actually consists of two pieces, a main body and a top ‘strip’ which comes off allowing you to remove the fan. Remove the 1xM6 bolt which holds the top shroud ‘strip’ piece (on drivers side). Unclip the ‘strip’ and remove. Undo the 4xM8 nuts (12mm spanner) connecting the fan to the pulley. There’s not much room here and the trick is to USE THE SPARE HAND TO PUSH DOWN ON THE ALTERNATOR BELTS which stops the pulley from moving while you undo the nuts. Use this technique as well for tightening the nuts on re-assembly. The fan can now easily be removed. Next, remove the main fan shroud body via the two M6 bolts at the top two corners. The shroud has location tabs at the bottom of the radiator and the shroud can now be removed by pulling it upwards to release the tabs.
8.Remove the radiator. Now that the shroud is gone, the bottom hose can now easily be removed by removing the spring clip. Now that we have all the obstructions out of the way the radiator is relatively easy to remove. It is held in place at the top by 1xM8 nut. This is located underneath the driver side engine cover seat latch. You may have to pull the carpet out of the way to get access. The bottom of the radiator is held by 2xM8 nuts. The passenger side nut can be accessed by getting underneath the van and the driver side accessed by reaching down from the engine bay. Hopefully these aren’t too corroded as the studs are mounted on rubber blocks which don’t like being subjected to too much torque. Take care with these and a dab of anti-seize compound on reassembly means the next time they come out will be easy! Carefully remove the radiator trying not to damage the fins! Take your time on this last step as you don’t want to taint your hard work so far by further damaging the radiator!
9.Reassembly is the reverse of above but outlined below:
a.Put in radiator, bolt in place.
b.Attach bottom hose to radiator.
c.Attach main shroud to radiator.
d.Attach viscous fan 4 nuts, REMEMBER; push down on alternator belts with free hand to stop pulley rotating when tightening nuts. Pulley can be rotated with the normal belt tension to access the nuts underneath.
e.Attach top ‘strip’ shroud.
f.Attach reservoir bottle.
g.Attach top hoses.
h.Attach power steering reservoir.
i.Check everything is connected and then re-fill engine with fresh ‘long life’ coolant, 50/50 mix preferably with distilled water.
j.Run engine, check for leaks and top up coolant as necessary.

Hope this helps!

Good post mate Very helpfull, hope I don't have to use it

35YRS MECHANIC

DONOT ATTEMPT THIS JOB IF YOU HAVE ANY HEALTH ISSUES, IT IS LABOUR INTENSIVE, IF YOU ARE HANDY DONT ATTEMPT IT.

L HAD RECORED THE RAD A YEAR AGO, THE CORE IS CORRODED AND IS NOW LEAKING. TOYOTA AUSTRALIA DONOT HAVE A NEW RAD FOR MY SUPER CUSTOM. A CORE WAS MATCHED AND A RECORE WAS DONE BY ODIN RADIATORS.

THE WARRANTY IS NULLIFIED BECAUSE THEY DID NOT R AND R THE RAD.

WHERE IN PERTH CAN I PURCHACE A NEW RAD .

KIND REGARDS

ROYGEE

Hi Generally very good how to,
I followed it recently and it was a very good guide to helping me get my radiator out.
i have a 4wd 3l turbo model and there were a couple of extra connectors which connect the main rad. to a secondary radiator. otherwise much the same.
I thought I would comment because after I did the radiator swap out, I simply did:

j.Run engine, check for leaks and top up coolant as necessary.

within a couple of days of the rad. change I now have coolant gushing out the the overflow bottle and exhaust fumes bubbling up through coolant, which I suspect is due to a cracked head/blown head gasket.
I found out you generally should bleed the coolant system after this type of job as if you dont you can have problems like I now have.
grateful for the post, just thought mention of this might make it better!

Good to know, I have to replace my radiator eventually cause i noticed a small leak in the core a while back, it's only weeping slightly but it's just a matter of time really. I'm on the hunt for a second hand rad but no luck so far.

I took mine to a radiator specialist to get an idea if it could be re-cored but it was all bad news! Mine has a small crack on the side of the tank that can't be repaired because the tanks are plastic. The guy said once they reach about 10-12 years the plastic has expired. The only option is to buy new from Japan.
He told me to check the horizontal radiator for any signs of leaking as well cause it's probably in similar shape, and guess what? It is! It's leaking on one side as well!
Toyota are giving me a price on Wednesday, i will make sure i'm sitting down.

Hiya Srburnsy,

just wondering if Toyota gave you a price for a new radiator?

cheers

Ben

Hi Ben, yeah i think it was around $900 each from memory. I have ordered both vertical and horizontal radiators so not a cheap exercise but have no other option in my case.

So Ben you need one too eh?

Ok so i called up Toyota to see if there was any news on availability for both radiators and yes it seems they are. They gave me a quote for the radiators and the water pump.. $1600 inc tax I have order them so should have them in about 4 weeks they said.

Hi srburnsy,

thanks for the update. This is probably a very strange angle for me to enter the forum on, as it was my first post and I don't own a a Hiace ... yet. I have been poised to make a purchase for some time now, and have been on the forums, doing the research. Any day now I will buy one from auction in Japan, and have it shipped. Before I stray further from the original topic, have to say, what a vehicle!!

Welcome snd.wave~, yeah they're great package ay. What model are you hunting for?

Pretty much looking for any of the SC's from 1996-98, the standard model, nothing too fancy. There are plenty up for auction, so can be fairly picky. Just hoping that the km's are fairly honest to the cars history. Will probably try and source some add ons like the nudge bar and side mirror. Will be used as a work vehicle, and for surf trips. Ready to put a lot of love in

Surf trips..... You need the 4WD then.

Ah yes definitely a 4WD model. Would love some of the add on trims, but its hard finding out which vans have what. I don't suppose many come up for wrecking in Oz either?

Keep an eye on ebay and this site www.japanoid.com/index.php Email them what you want and they usually can find it second hand factory equipment.

Ok just small update... My radiators arrived from Japan last week.
Paid just over $500AUD for the main vertical rad and $460 for the horizontal rad.
Today i started the job of removing the old radiators, took me 5hrs to remove both. Anyway apart from the missing skin from my hands and a sore back it all went well. Tomorrow i will fit the new ones, hope it goes back easier.

Don't forget to regas the aircon , and good luck with th knuckles.

AussieQ wrote:

Don't forget to regas the aircon , and good luck with th knuckles.

No need to disconnect the ac condenser, just unbolt and propped it up on jack stands.

Ok job is done!!

Was a total $%@ of a job! But well worth the savings, mechanic quoted me 10hrs work @ $90/hr.

So was driving around today and engine didn't get above 81 degrees. Before i did the radiators it was getting above 90 with the same sort of driving.

The old radiators were totally shot beyond repair... when removing the hoses the plastic barbs just cracked and crumbled in my hands, the main radiator was so blocked im surprised it worked and all the fin's were corroded and the tanks were leaking in several spots.

I replaced the water pump while i was at it, however after inspection the original pump was fine.

So far very happy, engine is 10-15 degrees cooler and hasn't gone above 88 degrees even on long up hill going flat out!

Part numbers and cost...
Radiator assembly - 1640067160 $544.28 AUD
Radiator sub assembly - 1651067020 $456.40 AUD
Water pump assembly -1610069356 $134.54 AUD
Thermostat (71 DegC) - 9091603121 $ ?? oh and don't forget the seal, separate part number, sorry don't have that number.

Knowing your engine isn't going to over-heat and crack it's head... PRICELESS.

Quick run up to Katoomba and all will be well Good one mate.

Quote :

There’s not much room here and the trick is to USE THE SPARE HAND TO PUSH DOWN ON THE ALTERNATOR BELTS which stops the pulley from moving while you undo the nuts. Use this technique as well for tightening the nuts on re-assembly.

HI Guys,

I'm changing the radiator on my hiace.
I cannot manage to undo one left nut from the fan clutch on the pulley. I spent a lot of time taking the three others one using the technique quoted here but cant #$$%% manage to get that last one. I asked a stronger man to try but he did not succeed..
Anybody have any advise on how to do it without damaging anything? a special tool? A special way? Please help!!

Also, mine is automatic hiace. Where do i top up transmission fluid afterwards? Same spot as the dipstick?

Thanks

Georges

Dwayne

Very good post on the rad removal.

I have similar motor, 1994 SC, & it is three years since it had the coolant changed so, I want to change the coolant & do a flush out of the sysyem before winter. There are a couple of things I want to know before I start.
1. How much liquid is there in the system? There is a member who said approx 10litres!
2. Where is the rad filler cap. The manual shows it on the top left but I can't see it. Do you have to remove some of the engine panels to get at it? The drain plug at the base of the rad is easy to find.
3. The little plastic expansion bottle at the side. Can you fill the system, after a drain off, through the expansion bottle? or can you fill the whole sysyem through the expansion cap on the engine block if you can't get at the rad filler cap?

David Steele