Exhaust for 2.8D same as 2.4D?

Hi,

Are the exhaust pipes for the 2.8D (3L) and 2.4D (2L) models the same?

Thanks.

Part number for my 2L model also shows up for some 3L Hiaces with an automatic, so I would say yes. That is with a long wheel base. But it would be better to confirm with know your model code LH113 etc.

Yes, it's a long wheel base with a code of LH119. What model codes are the 2.4s?

I have part numbers 17401-54093 for the front section (the part that has failed) and 17430-5B260 for the rear if I've read the parts diagram right (unlikely!)

The front part number only lists for 2.4s like mine, so 4WD short and long wheel base. I've got LH118
No other 2.4s. But the rear part number is listed for many 2.4 and 2.8 models. However, I think the front will probably fit as the engine and rear exhaust probably in the same position. No guarantee though.

So it is always LH10* (short) or LH11* (lwb) but the last number says a lot. Even numbers seem to have the 2L 2.4d and the uneven numbers have the 3L 2.8. Then, if the number is high like 8 or 9 it is 4wd.

Hiace4wd wrote:

Part number for my 2L model also shows up for some 3L Hiaces with an automatic

Interesting.
I recently fixed the 60mm pipe on my 1.9TD car, but my Hiace 2WD 3.0L has an exhaust pipe diameter of 50mm.

If I ever get a new one I'll probably get a custom pipe made of at least 60mm, but bigger if I can, I suspect it must be worth a few HP.

Thanks. Just double checked on ToyoDIY and 17401-54093 is listed for LH1**.

Part 17401-54093 (PIPE ASSY, EXHAUST, FRONT) was found on the following models:

Date range Model Frames/Options Found in diagram
08/1989-12/2004 TOYOTA HIACE, REGIUSACE KZH1**,LH1**,RZH1**,TRH1** 17-02: EXHAUST PIPE

GPW wrote:

Hiace4wd wrote:

Part number for my 2L model also shows up for some 3L Hiaces with an automatic

Interesting.
I recently fixed the 60mm pipe on my 1.9TD car, but my Hiace 2WD 3.0L has an exhaust pipe diameter of 50mm.

If I ever get a new one I'll probably get a custom pipe made of at least 60mm, but bigger if I can, I suspect it must be worth a few HP.

Yes but it is no use for our engines 2L and 3L without the turbo.

With yours with turbo it would be nice, but the amount of horsepower is not that high. So you would benefit from a big exhaust pipe more when you are also tuning the engine, injecting more diesel etc.
But I don't think the 1KZ is a nice engine to tune. Sure, you can make it quite a lot faster with these kind of straight forward modifications, it would work. But there is also more heat being generated.

That's a pain. My blowing exhaust is not blowing, exhaust guy thinks it's the gasket on the manifold.

That's going to be a pig of a job, isn't it?

TwentyOneThirtyFive wrote:

That's a pain.  My blowing exhaust is not blowing, exhaust guy thinks it's the gasket on the manifold.

That's going to be a pig of a job, isn't it?

Not necessarily a pig, I think the drivers seat needs to come out and then the engine plates come off and access is good.
Access to the exhaust stuff isn't too bad from underneath either - so it's not that bad IMO. I suspect access is rather easier than modern cars with their V engines crammed into the bonnet..

The biggest issue is how the studs get along - an oxy-acet torch should be able to shift any nut however, I have a tiny oxygen/gas torch and when nuts are orange hot they creak a bit but never fail to come off

More expensive will be a cracked manifold, hope that's ok, fingers crossed!

ta.  I remember now, I was in that area when I was doing the aux belts.

However, that sounds way beyond me, my skills and my 'halfords special' tool box...  

Need to find a local garage that will take a 2.8m tall beastie.

Yeah, that was the story with the alternator before. Take out the chair and the plate, and you can access it just fine. If you just want to replace the gasket, I think you can give it a go.
Perhaps you don't get the bolts loose, but you can always try, also with such a mini torch.
And indeed, it is accessible from below.

Read too many scare stories about snapped studs makes me nervous about trying this one. I see there are two in the parts diagram.

Knowing how long it took me to get simple bolts out before (hurrah for plusgas!), just makes me more nervous.

How bad is it if something snaps? How do you recover from it?

No such thing as a simple bolt unless it's one that unscrews when you want it to

Usually one has to _try_ to snap a stud, sometimes the engine has already done it for you.
To extract a stud can be tricky, it's a whole subject in itself. Patience and heat usually mean they are fine, if something is sticking out then a number of possibilities open up.

If you can heat nuts to red heat (oxygen+gas torch) then you may care to try and loosen them off yourself - the whole job hinges on how easy the nuts are to loosen. Wire brush threads first, then (local, intense) heat will expand the nut to loosen it's grip. You can then run a die over the threads or change any suspect studs as required.

If you find one is stuck and being a pain you can stick it back together and get a garage to do it.
I've resorted to grinding nuts off in the past and opening them up with a screwdriver LOL

You guys don't use any oil penetrating oil? Not that it will perform miracles, but it might help to do that several hours (or even one day) before you actually going to try them?

I would say, try to do it with your normal tools. If you use a long rod you will probably break it.

Also, once you have got some initial movement, don't get it out too fast.
If you have heated it before getting initial movement, let it cool down a bit.

By undoing a stuck bolt quickly, it will heat up internally and snatch much quicker.

I use plusgas, which is a penetrating oil mixed with magic or something. I also tend to use a big hammer and tap spanners/wrenches with that

However, all this talk of heating things...I don't have a torch and I don't really want to buy one. I'm trying to downsize

I appreciate the encouragement but I think I am going to leave this one to the professionals. Just need to find one.

Plus in general constant pressure is far better at undoing stuff than jerks.
I know nut guns can undo anything but that's down to sheer brute force, constant pressure is the way to get stuff undone.

I use WD40 as an easing oil but I suspect there are better ones.

The curse of the previous owner strikes again

Problem wasn't so much the gasket as the fact the gasket had been changed (fairly recently by the look of it), but whoever did the work didn't remove the corrossion from the manifold face. That's been cleaned up properly and a new gasket fitted.

Nuts came off easily apparently, no issues with the studs. The nuts on the downpipe did need heating though and the downpipe gasket had completely collapsed.

Have a much quieter van now

Glad you got it sorted. I need a replacement manifold and/or gasket soon (mentioned on the last MOT and probably contributing to my reduced mpg) which I've been contemplating doing myself to save cost but am also a bit shy of doing it just in case a bolt goes or something like you described.

Sorry the previous owner of your van was a wally. Let's hope that is the last vestiges of their ownership being sorted.

Thanks. By all accounts it was an easy job, but could easily have been a difficult one. Access is good, but if you have AC you need to get the comperssor out of the way. Genuine Toyota parts (two gaskets, two studs and nuts) came to around £40 (I got parts from allcarpartsfast). Didn't realise it would affect mpg, I could do with improving mine

Hopefully! Think I've sorted all the known mechanical problems now (aux belts, AC idler pulley, cross threaded wheel stud and the blowing exhaust).

Now the weather is warming up I need to change the ATF filter. But I'll probably go camping first

TwentyOneThirtyFive wrote:

By all accounts it was an easy job

That's because the nuts and bolts came off OK, it only takes one stuck to turn it into a terrible job

and two stuck to turn it into a spanners out of the pram situation

Hi guys,
did you manage to find the exhaust anywhere for sale in the UK?
I can't find the front the section, whether for 2.4 or 2.8
My van is a 1993 LWB 4x4 Hiace

mudnomad wrote:

Hi guys,
did you manage to find the exhaust anywhere for sale in the UK?
I can't find the front the section, whether for 2.4 or 2.8
My van is a 1993 LWB 4x4 Hiace

Do you mean the manifold or the downpipe?

Cheers,
W.

WGWarburton wrote:

mudnomad wrote:

Hi guys,
did you manage to find the exhaust anywhere for sale in the UK?
I can't find the front the section, whether for 2.4 or 2.8
My van is a 1993 LWB 4x4 Hiace

Do you mean the manifold or the downpipe?

Cheers,
          W.

Downpipe. The one with the flexi section

I got one from Kwik-Fit a few years ago. It fitted fine, though I wasn't hugely impressed by the quality in the long term...
I ended up going the custom stainless route... not regretted it,  though the setup was initially noisier than I wanted. They later fitted an extra expansion box which helped.

Cheers,
             W.