First service of 3L (2.8D)

Clocked up 5k km since we bought our van now, so time to give it a good service.

Got hold of a couple of manuals, which don't seem to cover the LH119 variant, not that they seem much use in terms of part numbers anyway...

So using toyodiy.com I think I've managed to work out most things, but not sure yet about the oil filter.

Oil filter: 15600-41010 - Is this the correct part number? I don't see genuine Toyota anywhere? Probably go MANN unless anyone can suggest better? Do I really need the special tool? I'm guessing so.
Sump plug washer: 90430-18029 - eBay
Fuel Filter:23303-64010 - Genuine Toyota available (Burrows)
Air Filter: 17801-54100 - plenty of these on eBay. Can't see genuine Toyota, will probably go for Bosch.

Are they correct? Anything else I need?

Oil will be semi-synthetic, but getting a bit confused over spec. 10w-40 okay? or something else.

Will also change the coolant. Toyota long life red?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm not a great mechanic

dan

The numbers are correct. By the way, there is a lot of reuse, that fuel filter fits half the Toyota's of that age for example.

I would get a universal filter removal tool, so you can use it for all filters. And just place the filters by hand, don't overtighten them (so don't use tools when mounting, only when removing)

I usually tend to go for very cheap oil. 10w40 should be fine.

About the coolant, I'm not sure what is recommended actually. Do you have the manual with it?
I could look it up, but I only have a Norwegian manual haha (but it is a lot like Dutch)
I have the 2L which is pretty much the same engine.
Typically I use the blue or green stuff.

More important: when replacing the coolant, just flush it well a couple of times. I did that by just putting a garden hose in, in various directions. With the tap full open!
One of them is also the interior heater, so slide open the heating and put a hose in there.
But the chance is high that muddy / rusty water comes out. Just keep doing it until clear water is coming out.
The original coolant should be disposed of correctly (so not down the drain) but the flushing water is okay to go in the sewage system (I think)

You might as well replace thermostat and the cap (normally called radiator cap, but in the Hiace it is not on the radiator)
That's not expensive to do.

Thanks.  Handy about the 10w-40, it's what the old van used and I have some hanging around.

Current coolant is red, but I'll trawl through the manuals and see what I can find.  So far they've been great at showing me in great detail how to change a piston ring (I'm fairly sure the procedure is to phone someone competent with a spanner), but not so helpful in telling me what I need to do a basic service!  Good tip on the flush.

Ok, it sounds like you have an official mechanis manual, which should also have the info somewhere.
However, I mean the smaller manual that came with the car (it should not mention any mechanical work howto's)
It is about how the dashboard works and basic stuff like that, and in the back it has all viscosity oil ratings and probably also coolant. It also mentions differential oil.

That is also something to look at, diff and gearbox oil because people never do anything about it. You could at least check current level of the diffs.

Unfortunately all the car docs I got are in Japanese, which I can't read. I found the reference in the mechanical manuals, it says coolant should be "ethelyn glycol base", which the toyota red is, so I'll stick with that.

Parts ordered, hopefully get them for the weekend.

Gearbox will be next. I found a sticker which seems to indicate that the ATF was changed at 30k km and 60k km. So a change seems overdue (115k km).

(I also found a little customer loyalty card with oil changes marked on it. Seems to indicate 67 oil changes, so changed about every 1,600km! Guessing it was more than a one car family )

After that it will be the diffs. Not even sure where to start with those, so more reading required and probably more questions on here!

Wish me luck. I'll have invented a whole range of new swearwords by the time the service is finished.

Hey man, I have the regular LH119 manuals in a zip file on dropbox if you want a copy?  I know how to work google pretty well being an IT guy and I managed to find em.  Let me know if you want and I'll PM you a link.

EDIT: Oops, didn't realise the last post was so long ago!  Hopefully you've got this sorted!

Cheers, I think I've got hold of the manuals I need now.

Haven't serviced the van yet though! Have stockpiled everything I need now. Or I hope I have...

Hi Ryank,

If you have the manual for mine with the 2.4td I'd love a manual on the van

Cheers, Mick

Sorry mick, I only have the 2.8L Diesel Automatic manual.

mickB wrote:

Hi Ryank,

If you have the manual for mine with the 2.4td I'd love a manual on the van

Cheers, Mick

This is not a manual, but may be very relevant for debugging with problems. I would save all the pictures of this thread!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/toyota-2lte-error-codes.201623/

Try these guys, they may have the manual you need:

https://manuals4u.com.au/auto/toyota/

Is where I found an English owner's manual for my van.

Thanks both, great help as usual from here

engine oil, filter, air filter and ATF oil done.

Have invented several new swearwords trying to get the fuel filter off the housing though! Currently have a very dented fuel filter... Any tips?

Still a long list of things to do

Well there are tools to remove round filters. Are you using that?

Yes, borrowed a strap thing on a socket from my friendly RAC man next door. With the housing gripped in a vice, could not get filter to turn (yes, going in the right direction!). Been given a good spray of penetrating oil and left over night, going to smack it with a hammer and a screwdriver later.

Then I guess I'll I'll be ordering a new housing

Ok, then it is probably fixed to good. Or it is sucking vacuum perhaps?

With those strap tools I can always get mine of, although I still have to replace the fuel filter on the Hiace. And yes, a lot of time I dent the filters if they are a bit stuck. But then they come loose, and I always have complete replacements including housing.

Anyway good luck.

Thanks

Found some other interesting things in the van while I had a day to work on it yesterday. I knew the split charge system wasn't working. The alternator has a 70amp output I believe. The split charge relay is certainly 70amp rated.

It's clear the previous owner never worked out why the 30amp fuses kept blowing...

Ok is it with diodes inside?

Anyway, charging at 70amp to the back battery, make sure cable is thick enough!
If it was fused at 30amps it might be an indication that the wiring might also not be up to 70amps.

Don't know about diodes, it's an old reimo badged relay but I don't know anything about it other than what is on the front cover.

Cables reasonably thick, although I'm probably going to replace it with something beefier. I've got a Victron/Cyrix VSR that I want to fit, it will offer charging of the cranking battery from hookup/solar, It's over specced at 120amp but also offers a jumpstart feature. I'll be needing 16mm2 cables if I want to enable that.

This is the problem with a new camper, the jobs list keeps growing!

Yeah but maybe you are replacing stuff that just works? (if you put in the right fuse)
If you are going to fix things that work, your list will be long

I'm gonna see if I can work with a single battery setup. Now I have two, but I want the space and less weight is nice.
Single battery for these two tasks is typically a very bad idea. Dead batteries in notime.

However, I have an Optima Yellowtop which is a deep cycle battery with very high crank amps for starting as well. And I got a huge solar panel. So I barely use all the capacity. I just have to make sure that the battery load cutoff happens at a point that still allows me to start the car.

Not fixing things that work, making working things better! Anyway, that's a job that is a long way down the list. Getting the mechanicals serviced is the top priority. Then some more camping

Ooh, update. Just been down to the shed and it's percussive maintanance for the win

I bought the owners manual and workshop manuals for mine over the weekend, well worth the money

The curse of seized bolts...

Pretty much done now.  Couple of Qs.

Is there a air bleed valve on the coolant system anywhere?  Often found at the highest point (which does actually seem to be the pressure cap).  It's just I'm sure I haven't put in as much coolant as I took out...  

Also, how are UJs greased?  I found a grease nipple on the prop shaft, but not on any of the UJs.

Anyway, running again now.  That was an experience.