Remote locking research

I want to buy my keyless entry remote kit and thought I’d try a known brand name hear in Australia even though they will be more $$$ but I figure if I get it from a bricks and mortar parts outlet hear like Autobarn they honour warranty and usually offer 1 for 1 exchanges if it blows up and you have your receipt.

So below are the 2 diagrams I have found for the Mongoose unit I am thinking of.

Once I find the elusive remote relay and suss out which wires to earth out for lock and unlock with my trusty new test lamp I bought today can any of you brainiacs figure out which of these wires to connect to them?

Looks good!
Just connect the MCL3000 commons to ground (Green and blue to ground) then the orange and purple go to the van wires to splice into the green and white/black flecked wires going into the CL relay.

To identify the right wires get a car test lamp (looks like a screwdriver with a wire out of the top) and connect the wire to ground, then when you probe the correct wires (via the socket would be best) the doors will lock and unlock.

I.e. the 'Negative switching (-)' section on page 2.

Connect up the indicator wires (any way around) so they flash when you operate the control.

Job done!

Careful splicing in the new wires, car auto splicing blocks can sometimes sever the wires, safer to solder and heatshrink but your mileage may vary!

I thought I would be putting 2 wires from the MCL3000 into series in the CL relay. Say blue and orange into the unlock CL wire, maybe green silver and green purple in series into the lock wire.

Is it so simple as I’m literally T-ing the orange and purple into the lock and unlock wires respectively? After earthing both commons obviously.

I’ve heard the hazard lights are easier than going to each indicator individually.

Nothing goes in series, just T them in.
The wires usually float like a bus at 12V, pull one down to ground to lock, the other down to unlock.

After the indicators, hazard switches and blinker boxes etc it's really just a wire connected to the bulbs on each side - so wherever is easiest find that wire and T into it.
The MCL3000 has two orangewhite wires for that, one for each side, as they must not be connected together - left and right have to be kept separate

Probably pulling out the hazard switch gives you best access to those wires but I can't recall! Careful when you stuff 12V into things - a 21w lamp can be useful in series in a wire for car testing out which wire is which.

Ok, I dug a little deeper and found the CL relay. Didn’t take long to work out some things. First earthing out lower left (green/black) unlocks passenger, sliding and back door. It usually sits at 12v

Nothing makes the drivers door lock move or make noise. I gather this is bad news and means it doesn’t have an actuator in it and the other 3 just slave off it? Even if I work out what makes those 3 lock if I fit this up as is I will have keyless entry into everything but the bloody driver’s door!?
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Earthing out the lower right (green/silver) does nothing. Larger lower blue/white is 12v. Larger lower black/white is earth.

Fitted a remote lock kit to my SC 2 years ago worked perfectly ever since it was the cheapest on Ebay, all done by connecting to the relay behind the glove box including the drivers door (different models must vary) , if I can do it anybody can 72 year old ex bricky.

It's my understanding that my model doesn't have a drivers door actuator. Only the key unlocks the drivers door, but unliocking the drivers door of course unlocks all the others. Central locking but not remote central locking. Are you going to try and fit the actuator? If you do, let us know how you get on.

Andonic wrote:

It's my understanding that my model doesn't have a drivers door actuator.  Only the key unlocks the drivers door, but unliocking the drivers door of course unlocks all the others.  Central locking but not remote central locking.  Are you going to try and fit the actuator?  If you do, let us know how you get on.

Exactly my situation. Yes I ended up fitting a cheap actuator after realising the driver’s door didn’t have one.

I must confess an auto electrician was employed here. We ended up taking the front completely apart to change headlightsto LEDs and disconnectthe stupid key warning alarm and door open dash lights that all started to flicker at 100 kph.

The cheapest Chinese central lock radio went under the ignition side and an $18 master lock actuator from Jaycar here in Aus went in the door. Only a slave actuator would do here as the driver’s actuatorbecomes a slave to the radio signals and the physical movement of that locking control arm uses the existing central locking set up to control the rest. It works a treat.

The first pic we had put the driver’s actuator in too deep and the window bumped into it. Second pic was the final position. We even wired it into the indicators so I get one flash for open and two for closed, or vice versa, can’t remember.

Result!

Crazy idea regarding this new remote entry. Could I wire it up to power my new sound system with fully sick subwoofer?

Here's the suggestion. A switch on the desk that in one position supplies the 12v power to stereo head unit normally via ignition. In the other position the 12v comes from the factory central locking solenoid. Mine seems to make positive 12v appear on one output pin on the solenoid in the unlocked position and then another one becomes live in the locked position.

I park up and hit the new dash switch to ‘remote stero’ position and the stero stays on when I turn off key and open up the tail gate to get boards out etc. Shut the front doors, put on wetsuits and organise boards at the back with Metallica pumping then as I walk off and hit remote fob the doors lock and stereo turns off.

Doable? Current draw issues through tiny solenoid designed to drive tiny actuators?

Haha, I suppose as long as the 12V is there consistently when you want it then I don't see why it can't be used as a signal .

Pass it into a 12V relay to a decent 12V fused source - you can get them on eBay with little brackets to hang then, you can even get clear relays with LEDs inside which help debugging.

I'd recommend Mozella, Sophie Hunter and of course Heather Nova for pre-surfing music

Don't get salt water in the keyfob!