DIY Remote control central locking?!

Hi all,

Off the boat my van arrived with a single key and a Japanese alarm system (minus remote!) which I took out - including the large Y connector that bridged the main loom - to return it to Toyota spec.

However rather than use that key to twist the locks (at which point all the doors unlock with the central locking) i'd like to be pressing the button on a remote, for convenience and wear prevention.

As I'd already got a cruise control kit arrive (not fitted it yet!) I was browsing the ads and found that you can get these units for less than a tenner.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car-Door-Lock-Keyless-Entry-System-Remote-Central-Control-Box-Kit-A2P8/162212969193

So has anyone else fitted one?, and has anyone a clue about where the locking wires would be? They would have been connected to my alarm but that's out now so no clues, although I know it's not in the main loom connector below the ignition lock as the pin in the alarm marked 'door' goes off on a thin wire which must have connected to a wire behind the dash.

I'll also need a permanent live but I should be able to find one of those.

Found this in youtube so it seems to be a popular pastime. Maybe I just need to pop the door card and put it in there?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIPvZLRLXOE

Hi Again JPW have the same problem with remote locking the Ebay one looks gut am up for keep us posted on that. How did the cruise control go mine is perfect.

JT69 wrote:

Hi Again JPW have the same problem with remote locking the Ebay one looks gut am up for keep us posted on that. How did the cruise control go mine is perfect.  

I haven't fitted the cruise yet but I'll let you know when I do. Could be 2-3 months though.
There are some remotes combined with alarms which look good, but require more difficult fitment.
I like the simplicity of just fitting something in a door rather than a odyssey under the dashboard...

E.g http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Alarm-Remote-Central-Lock-Immobiliser-AL698HC-/360675145751

I don't have central locking, so I would have to buy a kit with 5 motors and figure out a way to connect the locks in de sliding doors haha.
Would be convenient since the locks on the sliding doors and the rear door aren't working with the key, I always open them from inside.

If you don't have any clue on the wires, you could follow them from the door lock. Because in the end, that is the one that acts like a switch to active lock or unlock for the rest of the car.

Also if you search Ebay for "add a circuit", you can use that to add a wire with fuse nicely, from your fusebox.

Regarding central locking - I have it on mine, but it also only works off of the driver's door lock.

Additionally, I have two keys. One only works in the driver's door, the other is ignition and all other doors.

Is this right/normal? Doesn't seem right to me.

I think central locking often works from only the drivers door on cars, that's my experience anyway.

The 'fit it into the driver's door' method is great because it's simple and easy.

the problem comes in getting or tracing wires out of the door, because the door's right at the front and the door wires go through a tight rubber tube into I think - the outside.

So ideally an alarm or full central locking will be installed in the car - not in the door, but it's more difficult.
I'd guess even without the central locking option the wire's would probably be there.

Assuming you can get access it's a cheap addition even to add full central locking - but probably not an afternoon job.

I fitted a cheap eBay remote central locking to our 95 HiAce, it had central locking. I fitted it into the drivers door, all the wires you need are at the door switch panel.

I'm going to get this one, they reply to emails and even sent me info about wiring it up!!
I was primarily looking for a hopping code for the locks, and this can be installed as a locker first and you can wire up the alarm bits later as required.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Alarm-Remote-Central-Lock-Immobiliser-AL698HC-/360675145751?

This is the Central Lock wirings connection diagram.
IMPORTANT READ FIRST***
Please; check/read this first link:
Universal Fitting – All vehicles:
http://www.rclick.co.uk/documents/Universal_Fitting_All_Vehicles.pdf


Toyota Powervan/Hiace: (1995-on)
Siren Location - Top of o/s bulkhead or n/s bulkhead
Harness Entry - o/s or n/s main harness grommet
Chassis Ground - White/black o/s main earth point behind kick trim
Permanent Supply - Heavy white wire located in ignition switch harness
Ignition Supply - Black/red wire located in ignition switch harness
Starter Immobilisation - Heavy black/white wire located in ignition switch harness
Ignition Immobilisation - Black/orange wire located at diesel solenoid or rear of ignition fuse in o/s fusebox
Fuel Pump Immobilisation - White/red wire located in n/s sill harness
Hazards - To green/black and green/yellow wires located in harness to indicator stalk
Door switches - White/red and 2xSilver rings wire located in harness behind o/s A pillar trim
Boot/tailgate switch - Red/yellow with single silver ring wire located in harness behind o/s A pillar trim
Bonnet Switch - Fit switch
Central Locking - Single Point Central Locking - Fit door motor

Lock - Connect to green on motor
Unlock - Connect to blue on motor

Car Security Installation Guide:
http://www.rclick.co.uk/documents/car_security_installation_guide.pdf

GPW wrote:

So ideally an alarm or full central locking will be installed in the car - not in the door, but it's more difficult.
I'd guess even without the central locking option the wire's would probably be there.

Assuming you can get access it's a cheap addition even to add full central locking - but probably not an afternoon job.

I think I would spend more time building it in (with full central locking) than it would save me time unlocking the doors, so I'm not gonna do it hehe.

Hiace4wd wrote:

I think I would spend more time building it in (with full central locking) than it would save me time unlocking the doors, so I'm not gonna do it hehe.

That happens quite a lot with me LOL.
In my case though..

1) I'd rather not strain my single key in the lock each time
2) When out and about I'd feel better with an alarm on it

Whether I feel the same at the end of the fitting is uncertain however !

Yeah ok a car alarm is a different story.

Anyway, I should first buy this set of 5 new door locks. As I said, all the rear doors should be opened from inside out. So I would be happy if I could open all doors with the key haha

Hiace4wd wrote:

Yeah ok a car alarm is a different story.

Anyway, I should first buy this set of 5 new door locks. As I said, all the rear doors should be opened from inside out. So I would be happy if I could open all doors with the key haha

I don't have an interior handle on my tailgate. I wish I did, I may have to investigate how to fit one at a later date because if could be quite handy.
It may actually be easier to add a solenoid and a button to the door trim - hi tech (assuming a permanent live there) and easier to fit.

Fitting remote locking, post on here said all can be done without taking door card off just lift up the switch pad and fit unit in space below use 12v feed from door light wire into switch pad wire. This works, did a temp wiring job to test but the lock switch now fails to work (removed temp wiring it works again) is this normal for switch not to work.

Very interesting!

How did you get the switch pad off?
Can you post a link of the original post?

Any problems you found could probably be solved by a well placed diode to stop the unit and the lock switch fighting each other.

Any schematic?

Switch pad just lifts up easy have ordered diodes probably need 4 will solder and shrink wrap all connections will post some pics later.

More on this
OK, fitted remote CL today. Did it all on the drivers door without even removing the door card, I did it all through the space after removing the window/lock switch panel, it just pulls out. I took the power from the door light, linked the lock and unlock wires to the green and free/black wire on the door switch and the ground from the white/black wire on the door switch. It the pushed down between the door card and panel and then replaced the window/door lock switch.