Hi,
You can turn the hubs by hand or use a screwdriver or similar lever.
The 4WD has a transfer case, no centre diff, so it's slippy stuff only- don't use it on tarmac, unless it's snowy (in Maidenhead? I think not...!).
First engage the locking hubs, as above. Your front wheels are now connected to the front axle but not yet being powered. It'll use more fuel and wear out the front axle like this, which is why you can disconnect them when not needed.
Now you can engage 4WD using the button on the dash (when stationary). You now have drive to front and rear axles.
If you need more torque at the wheels, or better low-speed control you can pull the low-ratio gearlever (again, while stopped) and get, well, lower ratios, obviously! :-)
With this system you always get drive at both front and rear when 4WD is engaged, so you don't get all the power going to just one spinning wheel. A permanent AWD system, as on later models , can be used all the time so it's better for road use but is less effective when it's really muddy, as it will only put a percentage of the power through the centre viscous coupling.that links front & rear. I don't think they have low-ratio, either, as that's a feature of the transfer case setup that isn't built into the viscous-coupling system.
Hope this helps. Corrections welcome from those better informed than I!!
Cheers,
W.
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Wed May 09, 2012 9:32 pm