Servicing 1KZ-TE engine - some questions

Hi all,

had the van up on ramps yesterday for a bit of a look & learn exercise.

I have some questions. They may sound like very basic questions, but I'm still learning where things are located!

My van is a 06/94 Toyota Hiace KZH106W-MFPQT AWD.



In this picture, is the nut referred to by the arrow the point for draining the oil when doing an oil change? The view is looking from front to back. I think someone mentioned that the oil filter is a Z334?



In this picture, what is the small reservoir (marked with an X) located behind the air filter? I can't seem to find anywhere to be able to fill it up. Also, what is the aftermarket part number for the aircleaner filter?



This photo, I am assuming, shows the second radiator(located under the front of the vehicle)? Is the drain plug, depicted by the yellow arrow, the drain plug only for that radiator or for both radiators? If not for both, where is the drain plug for the main radiator located?

I checked the radiator fluid and noticed a whitish scale(?) buildup on the radiator cap itself. I added some rainwater to the overflow tank as it appeared to be rather empty & also topped up the radiator itself. The fluid seemed to be rather devoid of any colour indicating to me that there probably was either no coolant in the radiator fluid or that it had deteriorated because it hadn't been changed in a very long time. It is possible that there was only Sydney tap water in the radiator by the indications of the buildup on the cap?

In any case I am thinking of flushing the radiator system and putting some proper coolant in it. Is this something that can easily be done at home or would it be better to take the vehicle to a radiator place and get the condition of the radiator(s) diagnosed and the radiators properly serviced? I am not sure what condition the interior of the radiator would be in if it has only had tap water in it.

Any answers to the above questions would be appreciated.

Werner

Hi Werner,

That is the oil drain you show. There should be a plastic tube coming down next to it which is the drain from the oil filter recess (as the filter is on upside down it will leak out into this recess when you remove it). The tube might be tucked up behind the cover tray which would explain the oil staining around that area. The filter is a Z334.

That reservoir I can't remember what it is. I came across it the other day from the top accidentally when I removed the wrong engine cover whilst getting to the alternator. All I can remember is that I thought I didn't need to touch it.

I haven't touched my cooling system yet but check it regularly. If you do a search you will find on this board a couple of threads covering radiator replacement which include refilling with appropriate hints. The lack of inhibitor should of course be addressed ASAP.

Cheers,

Dave

Hi Dave,

thanks for the info. Will have to have a bit of a poke to locate the drain pipe for the filter.

Looking back at my original post, I thought that the 3 individual pics were shown, not the same one 3 times...? Not easy to try and post photos.

I've got 3 bottles of rainwater in the car while I decide what to do about the cooling system. I've been checking it regularly as when I originally checked it, the fluid levels were way down. Hopefully just a bit of negligence by the previous owner.

I'm thinking about taking the car to a radiator place and getting the system properly flushed and hoping the radiator is still in reasonably good condition internally.

For the time being, the van is only being taken out on short trips until I get a few things sorted out.

Anyone else have an answer to my 3rd question re the radiator drain plug? The photo to which it refers is in my galley page if it's not visible on the posting above.

regards,

Werner

Forgot to ask, what is the cooling system capacity so I know how much coolant to prepare?

I took off the panels underneath to have a look for the drain plug for the main radiator, but couldn't see it, at least not on the side facing the rear.

The good news is that there does appear to be some sort of coolant in the system rather than just plain water. However, I think it may be due for replacement as it's a yellowish-green colour and there was that significant buildup of residue on the radiator cap. Also, I can't top up the system with anything but rainwater or demin as I don't know what coolant has been used as different coolants may not be compatible as well as the water gradually diluting the coolant.

Therefore, by replacing it, I know what is in there & I can top it up with coolant rather than water.

Do most people use the red Toyota coolant or one of the others like Tectalloy, Nulon etc?

I am wondering whether it would be best to take the van to a radiator place & get them to flush the system. Problem is, they probably have never seen a setup as in our vans unless they are similar to the Australian sold Hiace of the same era.

Can anyone shed any light on this??

I'm a bit paranoid about overheating, so I would like to sort out the coolant issue sooner than later.

Bit of a bugger that my mechanic is overseas at present...

Werner

The rad drain plug is front bottom left as viewed from front....also some block plugs...
A proprietry cleaner would make sense...but at the minimum I'd just pull convienient hoses and run a garden hose through...(have all heater valves open) then fill with water, run/ circulate and drain.....on refilling (slowly) add coolant on the strong side (45-50%) as there will still be a little water in the system....
Various coolants available....I'd just use a ready available long life.....You'll need 5 ltrs to mix...not too strong though or it will find places to weep out

I have had a thought about the whole cooling system issue and also spoke to the RAA technical service as well as a caryard in Sydney which services these vans.

I have decided to have a "rise" test done to rule out any exhaust gases in the coolant=cracked head, then if that comes back ok, I'll get the whole system flushed by a radiator place and get some decent coolant put in, probably am going to go with the Toyota coolant as I aim to have my van for quite some time to come yet. Bit more expensive, but peace of mind. (Total cost flush + rise test ca $187 with Toyota coolant)

Then I just have to check out air filter & replace if necessary, as well as the fuel filter once I work out how much I need to undo to get it out.

Here is a photo of the area around the fuel filter assembly on my van. I have an idea what I may need to do to be able to replace the fuel filter, but just want to confirm. (disregard the state of the oil filter, it has been replaced by a new filter)

https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/gallery/Personal-album-of-wernerk/dsc06693as-pic_152.htm

I would guess that the procedure would be as follows :

1) Undo the 3 nuts (designated by a yellow X)

2) Loosen the hose clamps, (designated with a yellow H) & carefully remove the hoses.

3) Then carefully lift up the fuel filter assembly and undo the water sensor cable.

4) Unscrew the filter, replace & do up again.

To fit, proceed in reverse order to removal.

Does that sound about right (maybe 1 & 2 in reverse order) ? Anything else need to be loosened/removed?

Can anyone tell me a rough price difference of a Ryco fuel filter (Z336?) & genuine Toyota? Is it better to go with the Toyota one?

Hopefully once all this has been sorted out, I can finally go on a decent run out of town to see what she's like on country roads

You've got it right.....I'd just get Toyota filter. If you are running it for years and getting it set up whats a few $......having said that I just use whatever the motor factor has.....

Next time you should be able to unscrew it in situ.

Don't forget to reprime, it helps if you fill the filter with fuel/cleaner before refitting.

I've not managed to replace the filter in situe, can;t see how it would be possible, no room for hands/tools. When you take it out it could well be very tight. I found the only way tp get it loose is to put it upside down on the bolt heads. That holds the pump assembly still while you grapple it with two hands.

I managed using hands no problem, after the first replacement which was much the same as you described.

Clive wrote:

I managed using hands no problem, after the first replacement which was much the same as you described.

Don't doubt it Clive but I've never managed it on ours. This is just my three pennyworth so that anyone else experiencing this doesn't think they're going mad.

Marko

wernerk wrote:

Here is a photo of the area around the fuel filter assembly on my van. I have an idea what I may need to do to be able to replace the fuel filter, but just want to confirm. (disregard the state of the oil filter, it has been replaced by a new filter)

https://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/gallery/Personal-album-of-wernerk/dsc06693as-pic_152.htm

Has anyone else got the contraption marked with an X on the photo fitted to their vehicle and what is it there for? It's connected between the fuel filter & engine. It's also a MAJOR inconvenience when trying to access the fuel filter.

After over an hour of swearing & cursing, a lot of elbow grease and diesel spilling out of the filter, I managed to get the filter assembly out. The filter that was on there was a Ryco Z252X and it's jammed on tight. I have taken the assembly with me to work today to see if the workshop can loosen it. This was before I read the hint on sitting it on the 2 mounting threads to try and loosen it. My brain last night was frazzled with the effort of trying to get the assembly out and so couldn't come up with anything innovative. I had tried with my old oil filter wrench but it kept slipping.

Hopefully it will be less of a drama when I refit the new one. Would be a lot easier with the absence of that brass contraption marked X...

CustardCrazy wrote:

That reservoir I can't remember what it is. I came across it the other day from the top accidentally when I removed the wrong engine cover whilst getting to the alternator. All I can remember is that I thought I didn't need to touch it.

I asked my mechanic on Sat what that reservoir was for and after removing it, we decided it was some sort of expansion chamber to help with noise dampening.

Apparently a KNE-2590 air filter will also fit our vehicles. Got this from Sprint Auto after the guy there actually found the 4WD Toyota Hiace 3.0L TD listed in his computer catalogue. Suggested ebay might be the best place to obtain one.

Hi Werner,

There is a K&N filter on evilbay at the moment for $195. I have tried the oil type filters on a few cars and found them to be a pain. Seem to foul up quicker than I would have to attend to a paper filter. I have them on a few motorbikes too as standard equipment so it's not like I'm new to them but on old dirt bikes they are more waterproof than paper ones so there's an advantage anyway. In the case of the Hiace the paper type from toyota (I got my local dealer to order one in) last for years and cost about $65. They have lot's of leaves in them - many more than in any similar ryco one I have seen. My personal preference is to pay less up front and enjoy the hassle free (next time for you I hope) paper element.

Cheers, Dave

Hi Dave,

I came across a place in Sydney that sells the K&N filter for $175. I hadn't got around to pricing the Toyota item, but I'd be much happier paying $65

On the fuel filter front, I had the filter removed at our workshop at work. Installation was a breeze except for some persistent leaks from when the diesel dripped on the chassis yesterday, oops

I found the screwdriver which had fallen down into the abyss, but haven't been able to locate the other hose pinching clamp yet, even after removing the 2 front plates underneath. Who know's where that ended up going...?

Next jobs are to change the coolant which I am now going to do myself after discussing it with my mechanic and then change over the pissy little battery for my fridge battery (N70ZZ) from my 4WD. Has much more grunt to be able to reliably start the diesel motor. Just need to do a bit of fiddling around with the cabling & battery terminals as the terminals are in a different position. Also need to put a bracket in to hold down the battery.

Then it's onto the fun stuff, deciding how to set up the inside.

My mechanic's going to do an A/T service in the 3rd week of June, as the trans fluid is very dark in colour. The bearings will also be repacked then as well.

getting there, slowly but surely...

Cheers,

Werner

milkman wrote:

I've not managed to replace the filter in situe, can;t see how it would be possible, no room for hands/tools. When you take it out it could well be very tight. I found the only way tp get it loose is to put it upside down on the bolt heads. That holds the pump assembly still while you grapple it with two hands.

Hey Marko,

do you have the same brass coloured contraption next to the fuel filter (see photo in my gallery) on your engine, making it almost impossible to get any hands/tools in to remove the fuel filter in situ? I have seen some photos of other 1KZ-TE's and they don't seem to have this item, which would give you the space to possibly remove the filter in situ.

Cheers,

Werner