Reversing Camera Install

Hi,

I thought I'd detail how I installed a reversing camera. Mainly because there were a few issues with the Hiace and I have a few work-arounds to make it as simple as possible.

The main issues were getting the wire through to the tailgate and wiring up the camera with the minimum amount of disassembly of the tailgate.

I used an Atoto AC-EBHD03LR camera with an Atoto S8 head unit. This is a 180-degree fish-eye camera with a really cool virtual simulated panorama. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFqOqVP4ZTU

Note, this is a 2001 Super Custom G.

The installation consists of running a wire from the head unit to the camera - which is fixed near the number-plate. A complication with this camera is that the connection between the cable and the camera cable tail consists of an RCA plug & socket and a 12v DC plug and socket. As the mounting location of the camera is in the tailgate, these plugs and cable will need to pass through one of the rubber wire grommet sleeves - and then be fed through the length of the tailgate to appear by the opening behind the tailgate lights - which will be just about impossible. Also, the cable contains two wires that need to be connected either side of a reversing light, which is in the light cluster on the body of the van, so the plan was to finish the cable run behind that light cluster - and extend the camera's cable tail up through the tailgate, rubber sleeve and down to the other cable.

The main cable installation is simple. it's connected to the head unit as per the instructions, and I ran the cable behind the dash to the driver's side, down below the driver's door (after removing the plastic trim) and then pushing between the carpet and the plastic side panels. The carpet is so plush that the cable disappears up behind the panels quite easily. To get the cable in behind the RHS light cluster, panels need to be moved. This is also needed to later get the camera wire connected back to this point. The simplest way I found to do this is below. It sounds a lot, but it's quite quick and very simple to put back when done.

1. Unscrew the RHS light cluster.
2. Pull back the tailgate door seal from around the right hand side of the frame. This will reveal a number of metal tabs on the inside trim. otherwise, the door seal will stop the panels from being removed.
3. You'll need to loosen the head-lining to give the side pillar trim room to move. Use a trim removal tool (the forked type) to remove the three clips. It's also useful to remove the seal trim around the inside of the RHS rear moon roof. This will avoid the risk of creasing the headlining.
4. Remove the screw cover on the end of the curtain rail and undo the screw behind it. This will let the curtain rail fall aside slightly, enough for the other components to move.
5. Open the rear side window latch to reveal a screw into the pillar trim - and remove. Next remove the cover over the rear seatbelt buckle and unbolt the buckle. You can now pull away the pillar trim enough to gain access behind it. You don't need to pull it all away, just enough to gt behind is an to release the velour-covered window sill.
6. Pull the sill vertically upwards enough to un-pop a couple of the clips holding it in place. Watch out for a couple of metal tabs at the bottom of it that could mark the side panel below as you move it away.
7. You can either unscrew and remove the whole rear carpet plastic floor sill - or just the two right most screws to enable you to get the sill out of the way of the side panel.
8. With all of the above done, you can finally pull the bottom panel away enough to reveal an access hole to get the cable in behind the light cluster.

Feed the cable end into the panel void behind the light cluster and connect the two reversing signal feed wires across the reversing light bulb socket. I would suggest plugging in the camera here just to test it works.

Next, is cabling the tailgate. Pop off the inside tailgate panel and remove the plastic film protection (both the main piece and the smaller one behind the RHS lights). Bear in mind that most of this hassle in running the cable is caused by the large plugs and sockets. If you're using a camera that uses a skinny bullet connector, then is may be possible to pass it through the tailgate without any cutting, but with the one I was using, the simplest way I found to do this was to buy a spare reversing camera cable with the same plugs and sockets - about £10 on Amazon - and cut one of the ends off https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019XQRF3G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. The plan being to feed the cut end from inside the tailgate, up the side of the door to the grommet sleeve and down into the rear pillar. Then re-solder the cut-off plugs to join the main cable run. First remove the rubber grommet sleeve from the plastic plugs that connect at either end - then remove the plugs by pushing in the clips in on each side. The plan was to get some kind of semi-stiff guide wire through the tailgate and use this to pull the cable though. This took a lot of trial and error. I found the best thing to use was stiff three-core mains electric cable (the type you find on electric items, not the very rigid stuff you run inside walls to the socket outlets). Slide it in from the top and push down, twisting the cable if and when it snags. It may take a few goes and it may be worth putting a small kink in the end to help the twisting find an opening. There seems to be a lot of locations where the cable can snag, so persevere.






Once through, slice through the cable insulation a couple of inches, and pull out the three cores. Cut the cores off and insert the cut camera wire where the cores were. Then tape up with insulation tape. This will allow you to then pull the wire back out and take the camera wire will it, without it snagging. Once it's through, untape it, feed the camera wire through the plugs and grommet and through the top hole in the van's frame (into the void). Then aim to get it out through the rear hole that you should be able to see between the loosened head-lining and the roof. Once you've got hold of that, feed it down behind the pillar panel and further on into the void behind the light cluster!

Note, when replacing the rubber sleeve grommet and the clips, attach the grommet to the clips first, rather than putting the clips back in place first, it'll make it much easier.

Next, solder the cut cable end back together. Note, even though the plugs on the camera end of that cable that wasn't cut off will fit to the camera's cable tail sockets - the plugs on the end you're reattaching may not match the main cable sockets properly. In my case, the DC plugs and sockets matched but there were two male RCA plugs. However, you can buy camera cable pigtails that can be used instead. Just google "CCTV RCA DC pigtails": https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BM5SGPGD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Note, these cables are shielded with three cores. You'll need to solder the three cores together and also the shielding. There are lots of youtube videos for soldering shielded cables. But as the shielding will invariably be foil rather than woven wire, I would suggest folding the foil back over the outer insulation and using a heat-shrink solder sleeve over it to connect this shielding to a dedicated wire - which you then solder to the other shielding in the same way.

With that all done, plug the two cables together in the void behind the light cluster. Putting all the panels back is the reverse of above - but I'd suggest waiting until it's all tested.

Finally, it's mounting the camera. The SC had a few issues here - especially the number plate surround on the final facelift (Type B Ornament Sub-Assembly 75403-26030). First is mounting the camera in a useful place. The obvious location is near the number-plate lights, but as the plate is quite recessed into the tailgate at that point, you may want to bring it as far forward as possible. This is especially the case in this instance, as the camera's virtual panorama feature needs good side to side visibility. The camera fixing bracket (seems standard on many cameras) is a bit awkward to fit on the type B housing - as the plastic housing is very narrow around the lights. Also, the camera needs to come a little further from the back. the solution is a third-party mount from Ebay/Aliexpress.

Next is how to route the camera cable tail. Ideally, the plate surround would need to be removed, but with the type B, that would involve removing all the lights and also the trim strip (nightmare) as the surround has an edge that tucks up between the trim strip and the lock keyhole. The solution I found was to remove the left number-plate light lens and push the reflector to one side to drill a 12mm hole behind it. You can then paint the hole's edges to protect them, pass the plugs through and use a split grommet and sealant to seal it up.







The cable tucks up nicely behind the light.




With the camera in place, plug it's cable tail into the wire you attached through the tailgate and test it before putting the plastic sheet and the panel back.

Then just a matter of bending the mount to the right angle and giving it a test.

My new radio came with a reversing camera but I feel it needs a much longer wire to reach from the radio back to the rear bumper (I was thinking of attaching it to the towbar, so wouldn't need to run through the tailgate. Any suggests about getting a longer wire, or an extension?

Hi Andonic

I bought an extension wire (same reason) for my wife’s taco. It was just a vga cable with the trigger wire wrapped in it for that radio. On her Spyder it used a little 6 pin connector (newer design) that I got an extension off of Amazon.

I think you will have no difficulty sourcing a longer signal and trigger wire off of Amazon. If you’re having trouble send a pic and I’ll try to help any way I can.

Good Luck and God Bless
-Bryan

Yes - lots of alternatives on amazon and ebay - you'll just need to ensure it has the same connectors at each end and any signal wires (for the reversing light etc). Alternatively, there may be extensions you could purchase too - the latter may be useful if the reversing signal wires will reach from the original wire and you just need to extend for the camera.

Could also be worth checking with the company you got the reversing camera from. They may supply extensions or longer originals that will guarantee it will work.

Andonic wrote:

My new radio came with a reversing camera but I feel it needs a much longer wire to reach from the radio back to the rear bumper (I was thinking of attaching it to the towbar, so wouldn't need to run through the tailgate.  Any suggests about getting a longer wire, or an extension?

Hello Andonic. What radio did you get?

Hello g00se.

Superb write-up. Many thanks for making the many posts here. The audio in my van is junk and needs a complete make-over. blgravely has been kind enough to send over some details of the speaker setup in his van and I want to add to the rather limited set I have.

I’m also looking at an ATOTO unit, also for the camera options and steering wheel add-on.

The dash mounted speakers I have are actually quite decent drivers, but these need adding to. I think there are mounts in the doors for some (~10 cm, but I don’t have the details to hand). The tailgate is another option for additional speakers, but I don’t think there are proper mounts there. I’m unsure if I can add any into the rear area / cabinetry but these would make 8. I’m a bit reluctant to disturb the headlining unless I’m sure where to work and there are mounts to use. Finally, I think there’s space just behind the sliding door area for a small sub.

The reason I put this here is that I see the speakers, head unit and camera setup as a sort of integrated area.

I’ve not bought an ATOTO setup yet as there’s been quite a lot of gaps in availability and plenty of new models so I’ve been reluctant to get something until I’m a bit more sure of the model range and fit. I’ve just had a look on their site and it seems to have changed completely.

Which model S8 did you get?

Also, how did you trigger the camera? I’ll be wiring in a switch rather than from the reversing light power so I can turn the camera on anytime (such as towing) rather than just when in reverse.

Finally, if you are doing any LED lighting swaps I might suggest replacing the number plate lights. On my van these have previously got quite hot.

Your camera install looks very neat and smart. Well done!

Cheers!

LH119V wrote:

Hello g00se.


I’ve not bought an ATOTO setup yet as there’s been quite a lot of gaps in availability and plenty of new models so I’ve been reluctant to get something until I’m a bit more sure of the model range and fit. I’ve just had a look on their site and it seems to have changed completely.

Which model S8 did you get?

Also, how did you trigger the camera? I’ll be wiring in a switch rather than from the reversing light power so I can turn the camera on anytime (such as towing) rather than just when in reverse.

Hi there,

I got an S8 Gen2 Std. Make sure to buy it direct or from an official partner - then you get the warranty. I got mine from the seller utowincarav on ebay - they do deals with about £50 off RRP on the S8. Support from ATOTO is great. Also, wherever you get it, make sure it's a Gen2 as it has more bells and whistles. One thing to bear in mind is if you want DAB radio, the Std can play DAB but doesn't come with the DAB ariel.

Even though I've wired my reversing camera to the reversing light, the S8 has an app that will display the rear view on demand - so you can use that rather than the switch. I got the ATOTO camera ACEBHD03LR with the funky virtual reversing panorama. It's really very very useful as I have to parallel park in tight spaces quite a lot. One thing the manual says is that the panorama feature cannot be used if you have a tow-bar. However, I believe this is just because the tow bar would mask a particular mark on the configuration mat. With the height of the install on the Hiace, I'm not sure that will be an issue in our case. But saying that, I'm getting a tow bar fitted next month and I'll try to make sure the ball can be removed for if I ever need to reconfigure it again - just in case.

Just wanted to say thanks for this!