failed drivers electric window

Hi,

I'm considering buying a 1993 super custom with a possibly failed drivers window. It's a fair distance from me so I hope to get an idea on what could be involved?

Currently, it's stuck open and as it's the drivers side, I'm assuming the window lock button isn't stuck.

I've searched for possible parts numbers - and there seems to be two options - 8571026010 or 8571020060 and I'm looking at between £150 and £300, shipped from Japan. So not cheap and it'll take a while to get here.

Assuming it's the motor and not wiring or mechanical runner issues - and I cannot find one at the breakers - is it possible to temporarily close the window? As it will be stored on the road in the UK while I wait for the part, I don't want it getting wet inside - and using polythene will be too temping to break in. Can the motor be wound manually?

Thanks,
Steve

Good afternoon goose.

Sometimes the windows go back if you slam the door while holding the up button. I’ve also gotten them to go up holding the glass on both sides with the door open and pulling the window up while having someone else press the switch.

Question. Those PN’s fit a ton of nineties Toyotas. They are not bespoke to the Hiace. I can buy them locally at the Toyota dealer here, maybe you can too over there avoiding the pain of sourcing them from Japan.

The regulator and motor are a pain to get to, but straight forward to replace unless you have large hands.

I recommend giving Toyota a call. If they aren’t sold in Norwich, they are in America and easy to come by.

Good Luck!
-Bryan

Cool - thanks - I'll try those tips and it sounds like a replacement is less difficult to obtain if necessary.

Hello g00se

That’s great advice from blgravely.

The system is fairly simple with a motor driving a quadrant that works a scissor mechanism to raise and lower. The simplicity is also in that there aren’t any cables etc. I had to replace a VW system once that all sorts of cables, but those windows moved a lot faster.

I think the motor is used on a lot of Toyotas but the winder quadrant and scissor bit might be unique to each Toyota model as the geometry and fix points on each door type might be different. Just a thought.

Not surprised it’s the driver’s. These obviously get a lot more use so it might be wear (leading to mis-alignment) on the mechanical parts. If so, the motor might well be fine. It might make a sound when activated or will cause low power lights, such as the door light for example to dim when the switch is activated. This could point to a new quadrant or if the glass isn’t correctly positioned just adjustment or lubrication.

Just don’t damage the glass!

If there’s no current draw then it’s probably the motor or the switch (or wiring or fuse, but I think other circuits are on the same fuse).

For motor see above; it might be repairable, too but this is probably only for the dedicated.

The switch is a two-position type so first position is 'move a bit'. Second position is 'move until fully up or down'.
I had some problems with my driver’s window switch and I chose to strip and clean it. It was a bit of a nightmare as the position 1 to position 2 interlock click is by a sprung-loaded ball, the mechanism needs to be greased to work properly yet the contact pads need to be clear to work and the window lock button has a 2-position, sprung-loaded click switch. It took a lot of patience to get sorted and it could be the failure point.

I look some pictures and can post these if necessary, but it’ll also help to be an octopus!

Importantly,
I wouldn’t let an iffy window be the difference between purchase or not but include it is to your calculations. I’d be armed with new cost of replacement parts for a factor over sale price.

Also,
I’d also do a nose to tail exam, as detailed as possible before any test drive. Try to ensure the van has not been driven before you visit. A cold engine will tell you a lot more. Note down any and everything you find that’s not as it should be during the exam and further assess these and anything else during the test drive. You’re buying an old vehicle after all and while the seller might list some faults I’d be amazed if you don’t find more and they may well reveal more, too! It’s also useful if you can also take someone who has bought / sold a few older vans etc and if they are mechanically useful then great

I also had to make a longish drive to get my Hiace and ‘went equipped’ with a 3T jack, quite a lot of tools to test all sorts of mechanical bits, an inspection light etc, plus a relative who has a ~25y camper.

We filled a page of an A5 note pad but I’ve since found plenty more things during the refurb. Basically you ultimately have to decide whether it’s what you want and if you’re prepared for it to be as is, or you can haggle down the price by the problems you find, or you walk away.

If you want to pm me the advertisement I’ll take a look. I’m not interesting in buying another van and don’t know anyone who is. Alternatively post it here and we can all take a look? Your call.

On the window, if a more invasive approach is necessary then remove the door card. Fixer Merlin shows how to do this on his YT page. Just get some trim tools first. There should be a vapour barrier behind. I expect the motor can be disengaged from the quadrant to test its operation and manually close the glass if the helpful suggestions above don’t work.

Good luck!!

It’d be a very, very uncommon failure in a Hiace if it’s the motor or regulator (the mechanism). I’d definitely be suspecting the switch before anything and carboned or pitted contacts. After that would be broken wire in the door hinge but that’s also a “they never do that on these” unless someone has monkeyed with the harness installing door speakers.
But I guess when buying you have to play worst case scenario.