Anyone want to help play guess the rattle?

So heres a story of things ive had replaced in 6 weeks on this van:

timing belt
tensioner
idler
thermostat
tires
sway / roll bar links
a few split air hoses
glow plugs (and carbon cleaned)
air,fuel and oil filters

after driving 3000 miles the van developed a shake.  the entire exhaust system shook, the engine shook, everything shook - at idle.  Badly.
Was diagnosed as injectors  -so we replaced those also.

the shake dissappeared (thank god) but was replaced with a lovely blue smoke at idle and an odd unrhythmnic rattle.

Back in we go - replaced the disintergrated crush washers / heat sheil washers hoping to cure the smoke and the little rattle.

Both still exist.

Ive uploaded two videos to youtube and have linked them below  if anyone wants to help me play "guess that rattle"  ?

Its NOT regular and rhythmnic like a rod know noise.  Ive checked my oil (which was changed 3000 miles ago but is black as night) and trans fluid and both are fine.

You can hear the rattle in the background in the idle and the acceleration video.  Its a weird noise - like shaking some small screws around in a tin - you'll see what i mean. And its much louder underneath the van than inside the cab.

Ive just moved out into a really rural area and now drive 1hr 10 min each way to work twice a week so i need to work this out asap.

Please bear in mind my mechanical knowledge is somewhat limited so i wont be poking around taking things apart myself, but id love some opinions and i do understand how things work etc.

I also have a neighbour across the way who is mechanically inclined, and im booked to see a new mechanic in the new area 10 miles away this week..... because my rear axel shifts on its own accord.....  seriously - worst van ive ever had.

My last 2 hiaces ran great for 11yrs with barely a single repair.


https://youtu.be/ZiaubVSFCpM   

https://youtu.be/61v1GczztZs

also a little video of the "turbo fart"  it does at shut off......

https://youtu.be/YKFcu5Sw6lI

Can't speak to the rattle as I have a 3L engine, so lots of different bits than yours, but as to the rear axle shifting, are you saying shifting as in moving side to side? If so I would check you track bar bushings and see if they are toast. That might allow some side-side play, though we may need you to describe this shifting behavior in more detail.

its being looked at tommorrow because im struggling to find anything. The rear right wheel sometimes moves like 1/4-1/2 inch out, then back. sometimes it dosent move for days.

Ill check the bushings. I just replaced 8 of them on other bits.

now..... back to the rattle.......

That click at shutoff sounds like the “throttle” butterfly closing. (Throttle is in quotes coz it doesn’t control engine speed, fuel or air metering). The butterfly shuts to give a smooth shutdown and prevent dieseling run-on.

That rattle sounds like the underlying rattle that every single higher mile 1KZ-TE on the planet has. “They all do that sir”. It does sound more pronounced tho.
Mine is particularly pronounced on startup and until fully warm, and lessens to nothing under load. I ran full synthetic 5W/30 oil (still within spec for the 1KZ) for a while but that made the rattle as loud as yours. Changed back to a heavy duty mineral 15w-40 (Gulf Western) and the rattle minimised to almost nothing.

it only appeared when the injectors were changed.
something happened then to cause the rattle and the smoke.
the mechanic where I've moved to thinks the last person may have messed up and something got inside that shouldn't have done. And oil is leaking somewhere to cause the smoke that wasnt before.
they're taking a look next week.

the rattle in the videos is only about 20% as loud as it in person. sounds like someone shaking peanuts in a tin.

Ah. Blue smoke is odd for a diesel, vary rare.
Where are you located? My SC was written off last week, perfectly good engine and trans up for sale! Brand new injectors a few years ago. Haha. The fact you said “miles” means you’re not anywhere near here.

Hope you don‘t discover anything catastrophic.

Oh, just occurred to me... One thing that can cause odd noises and excessive smoke is if the vacuum lines are reconnected incorrectly after work is done. They control the EGR, that tgrottle butterfly and a few other things. Very, very common for them to be mixed up by mechanics and effect on the engine is extreme.

The 1KZ-TE workshop manual that is easily available online in PDF form has the correct orientation of the lines. Worth checking.

They’re located right behind the throttle body and inlet manifold plenum, up top. That vacuum solenoid and piping you see there.

Hi,

Since the rattling noise appeared after injector replacement... you might want to start there.

Put back the old ones and see if that "fixes" things... if it does, you will need to take a closer look at those "new" injectors.

When you replace injectors, there are two more parts you need replace: metal o-ring (heat shield) and a cup where o-ring goes into. They are inexpensive... like $2-3 for a pair.

Hi Sam - if you read my original post you will see that i wrote that the  heat sheilds etc were also replaced with the injectors as the old ones were pretty disintergrated.

I dont have the old injectors.  the mechanic didnt give them to me.  I did see them, but i didnt take them.  they needed relpacing as they were causing an EXTREME vibration.

Pete - sadly im in usa not NZ.
The mechanic that was meant to look at it on weds just emailed me to say theyre not interested in looking at my van anymore and u should find someone else.  I just moved to the middle of almost nowhere and theyre the only mechanic for over an hrs drive so its pretty messed up theyre refusing to help me. Hopefully they will change mind
Im really worried now after what you said because id have no clue how to even begin to check if that was wrong :/ - with the vaccuum lines.  I have a 2hr round trip commute to work and the nearest store for groceries is 20 miles round trip so i really need my van.
My knowledge of repairs / what parts look like etc is pretty limited (past the obvious and ive been learning as i go) 

When I get a chance I’ll link to the engine workshop manual and which page number the picture is on. If you can connect speakers to the back of a stereo you can follow the picture. It’s worth a check at least.

I Googled “1KZ-TE Workshop manual pdf” and this link is active. It’s a direct link to the pdf
http://www.hemmi4x4.ch/index_htm_files/1KZ-TE%5B1%5D_Handbuch.pdf

The following pages have pics of the vacuum hoses and their routing position. I do note that the procedure for removing the injectors involves disconnecting the lines so quite likely they may be mixed up. Very easy to do and can completely reverse their intended operation.
Page FU-5 (pdf page 301) has the pic at the top. Note: the viewpoint for the picture is as if you were sitting in the rear passenger seat behind the engine.
Page ED-13 has a slightly exploded diagram that describes each component there.
Page ED-4 is an exploded view of the intake runner that is the view you get standing by the front passenger seat looking at the engine after opening the engine cover.
Page EM-71 Shows the vacuum lines in their correct position. It also has a picture that is the viewpoint of the engine as if standing at the drivers door. It shows the other side of the intake runner connecting down to the turbo.

If you can’t really see the hoses from lifting the engine cover, you can actually remove the body panel behind the engine exposing the transmission bellhousing and the rear of the engine. Pull back the carpets in the rear footwell and off the back of the engine bulkhead and undo about 20 10mm bolts. Takes about 20 mins but worth it for access.

Hope that helps.

so, i found a diesel mechanic to look at it in 10 days, then today they email me to say they changed their mind and dont want to look at it anymore.

Im literally now living 10 miles from the closest store, 1hr 15 from work, and neither diesel mechanic in town will help me / work on it.

I have no idea about working on cars past changing some filters and tires.

....whoopee. Just discovered oil spraying finely ouf of the exhaust

I love these Hiaces but I wouldn’t contemplate owning one in a country without the parts support, both new and used, or the mechanic support. Every corner garage in here NZ can do work on these are there are garages who specialise in nothing but these Toyota 4WD drivetrains.
Even with all that backup and servicing, they just don’t make sense to me any more as a daily driver. Technology and safety in the 25-30 years have leapt ahead massively.
Oil spitting in the exhaust could be anything from valve guides, turbo oil seal to rings. My money would be on turbo oil seal or bearing. That oil being burned or recirculating via the egr could also make it run like a pig at idle. At getting on for 30 years old, every o-ring and rubber component in the engine & ancillaries will be on the verge of crapping out.

@pete_nz   yeah i had the first JDM in australia for 7.5yrs.  The last ones ive had herea in USA - im excellent at finding parts once i have a diagnosis, and i pretty much understand how things work, i just cant DO the work.  Its like understanding how to paint, but having the drawing skills of a three year old.  Crappy metaphor, but you get what im saying.

My mechanic buddy in Austin seems to also think its the turbo oil seal, as does another person.  You make three.
Ive already sourced teh valve guides and the piston rings just incase - that was easy.

Any idea on the OEM part number for the turbo seal?  

Hopefully it will get looked at in a week

I usually look up the exploded diagrams on megazip, find the part number then order  from part souq.  Turbos are a new thing for me and im not sure what im looking for.....

My 1988 one i had in australia ran like a fricking dream all the years i had it.  Only did filters, water pump and brake pads all that time.  She rocked.

new info....... whereas before it consumed a quart of oil in 3500 miles its now consumed that amount in only 300 miles.

It wasnt consuming oil until AFTER the injectors were changed around 300 miles ago..... which is when the smoke started.

wt-actual-f?

https://youtu.be/AYMDO27Hhss

rattle sound from inside the house.

Ok - so the rattle was fuel knock. We replaced the 3rd and 4th injectors (again) with oem ones.

injector 1 and 2 are still non oem.

I originally got interchanged injectors in may when the toyota oems were out of stock. My van apparently did not like them.

the engine is running with more vibration now at idle than before. We are wondering if it is because of the 2 types of injectors?

.... also now the rattle is gone theres a new noise - like a metallic shh-shh-shh-shh-shh-shh-shh in the background.

Oh happy days........ :/ bearing somewhere? ....

https://youtu.be/-d65zcdAZ6Q