- TwentyOneThirtyFive wrote:
- While we are geeking out on oil... While I was looking for info on servicing my van, I came across some threads referencing Fratnz Filters.
http://www.frantzfilters.com/
Something good or snake oil?
Not that I'm about to add one, just curious.
Interesting. I'm sure it does what it says, bypasses most of the oil and has a fine filter to catch the small particles.
Whether this is of any practical use and compensates for the arduous installation required - and pipework + extra canister is debatable though.
An easy upgrade for an oil filter is a magnetic strap clipped to the canister.
E.g: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERMAG-FP-6S-OIL-FILTER-MAGNETS-/200959477855?hash=item2eca1e485f:g:qAMAAOxyNwNSJMJV
This will keep any steel bits safely out of the way and it easy to fit.
I think however if we replace the oil and filter on schedule we'll be well able to comfortably pass 350,000 miles and things like rust (or rust proofing!), timing belts, gearbox mounts, fan couplings, sunroofs, ECU capacitors, relays etc. will be of far greater importance. Basically I suspect the wear state of our engine will outlast the vans
.
I remember seeing the internal bore of a 320 engine from a 1980s auto BMW, a similar quality to Toyota bores. It had done 120,000 miles and you could still see the honing marks - but you couldn't see a trace of wear.
I'll be using 5W30 or 0W30 all year round on mine when I get to changing it, but that's only because the engine plate on the van tells me I can use a 30 weight oil. The extra MPG of PAO synthetic (cheap from my local Tesco or Costco) will pay for any slight price difference IMO.
I use 0W30 car grade oil in my scooter too (a SYM 300) and I like the knowledge that if I have to use more power on a cold morning that it's far better protected than if I had a sub PAO grade oil. Even then, the engine's going to outlast the machine though and it's already good for 90mpg